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Monday, August 30, 2010
Navigation enters the island and Nuuk, the capital
of Greenland: 43 kms
64° 18' NR - 051° 07' W/64° 10' NR - 051° 44' W
Alarm clock always so morning, it falls still some
drops while we consult the bulletin weather. The
forecasts are good, the wind on Nuuk fell, finished
20 m/s of southern south east. Today, the 5m/s of
north east should not disturb us. We thread the
combinations and withes the still soaked tent. We
begin our navigation with side from rock in against
currents. The sky always gray, but is released. We
see the glaciers now. With about fifteen kilometers,
where the fjord makes a turn with right angle
towards the west, an small island enables us to pose
foot with ground, and to carry out superb panoramic.
Taking again our paddles, we now tackle the ultimate
crossing of the year. Arrived on the bank opposed,
speed on our GPS indicates by place, 10 km/h, before
returning to half. Has 14 hours, sitting on the
rollers of an exit of river, we swallow a hot soup.
One hour later, the first dwellings of the capital
mark out the landscape, at low altitude. The
overflight of the planes indicate the proximity of
the airport. The end is close. We give our last
blows of paddle. Going along the large bars of
buildings, we are not any more that with one
kilometer of the arrival, and, in spite of tiredness,
we are divided between the joy of arriving and
envies it to continue.
At 5 p.m., with low of the tide, after 1.033
kilometers of paddle, since Ilulissat, we touch the
large rollers of the beach of the Old University.
Tomorrow, there will be no navigation, and it is
with the division of our accounts and our images
that we now will work.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Navigation between Kapisillit and the island which
is opposite the fjord of Qorqut: 50 kms
64° 26' NR - 050° 16' W/64° 18' NR - 051° 07' W
5 hours 15, the rain tambourine always on the fabric
of tent. Gusts blew all during the night. The
situation seems to be calmed. Michel, informs our
router, us that the infos weather are not available.
Having consulted the infos the day before, we decide
despite everything to go there. With the rain, it is
necessary for us to fold the whole of our material
and to equip us inside the tent. With 8:30, we give
the first blows of paddle whereas the wind recovered
to blow. It comes us from the south and accelerates
at the bottom of the fjord by an opening in the
relief. The waves grow hollow and take to us by
through. First 20 kms are painful, but gradually,
the wind drops and the conditions improve. Protected
in our combinations, the rain is a less problem.
Arrived in the imposing one ravelled fjord Umanap
Suvdlua that we did not have to borrow to go it, we
optimize our navigation and coupons with shortest.
The stormy grains follow one another. Scarves of
clouds cling to the tops reliefs. On 360°, such
lightning on a stereotype, torrents of scums descend
the granite slopes in a dazing noise. Around 6 p.m.,
whereas the distance which separates us from a zone
of potential bivouac decreases, in this environment
of black and gray, an arc in sky makes its
appearance. After 50 kms, between two downpours, we
assemble the camp on the culminating point of an
island punt. In spite of the greyness and the rain,
the panorama is splendid, our last bivouac in full
nature was to be with the height.
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Kapisillit
64° 26' NR - 050° 16' W
The wind and the rain gave all the night. The
morning, while a lull takes shape, we resume our
work at the communal house and consult the weather
on Internet with the shop. At midday, we have hardly
time to finish our eggs with the bacon which the
rain recovers to fall. We cross the village and we
return to Karl, the teacher, and his wife, Kristina.
They left to drive out the caribou, inviting us to
use their house. At the semi-day, they return
completely soaked. There too, the caribou was not
with go. While we work on our images, it engages a
DVD and passes to us a French police officer. Later,
by looking at our photographs, the chance wants that
we already met his/her parents on Attu. We had
passed besides with them a long moment on their camp
of fishing. They invite us to remain for the dinner.
As the habit wants it, before leaving them, they
photograph us in their residence. Tomorrow, we rise
early, Nuuk is with 100 kms, we think of reaching it
in two days.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Kapisillit
64° 26' NR - 050° 16' W
Since the day before, the rain does not cease
falling. We go in the small living room of the house
hospital to work on our PC. The wife of our friend
of the day before works there. At the end of the
morning, we see it arriving, staggering and having
much evil to speak. He proposes to us to accompany
it on his boat, because he leaves to raise his nets
with salmon. Within sight of its state and rain
which falls, we decline his invitation. When at
midday, his wife closes the buildings, it proposes
to us to continue our work on their premises. One
hour later, our man arrives there bredouille, and
proposes to us beer and alcohol in order to better
be useful itself. The table is full with cigarette
ends, it asks to us whether one wants a salmon which
it froze. Environment is unhealthy, we pretext a
consultation to be made on Internet to leave it and
set out again under the rain which falls outside. It
is at the school, ultra modern for only four pupils,
and thereafter in his teacher, whom we finish our
work around a coffee cup.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Kapisillit
64° 26' NR - 050° 16' W
Our camp is drawn up with the right in the middle of
the central place of Kapisillit. The only flat place
which we found near the point of unloading. The sky
is gray and the forecasts weather for the days to
come are hardly amusing. One awaits winds of 25 m/s
in the area of Nuuk and that until last the weekend.
The village is very wide, and from share its
position, with the foot of the relief, one never
distinguishes it entirely. In spite of new blazing
equipment, this one misses activity cruelly. Only
about fifty people really live there at the year. In
the afternoon, before the bad weather arrives,
leaving our material under the tent, we travel by
the kayaks to reach the bottom of the fjord and by a
short ramble, to reach the very close glacier. The
sky is done threatening more and more and the rising
tide obliges us to take again the way of the return
quickly. When we return on the village, the first
drops accompany us. We dine safe from a drier, where
old skins hang, there, we accept the invitation of a
fisherman to come to make dry our material in his
residence and have a coffee there. When we join the
green house located in top of the hill, our man
accommodates us with an air staggering, on his table
trails many beer bottles. Unfortunately and like
some, he does not drink only coffee.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Navigation between Qornoq and Kapisillit: 46 kms
64° 31' NR - 051° 05' W/64° 26' NR - 050° 16' W
At 5 a.m., while in our small country cottage, we
arrange our effects in their respective bag, outside
the day hardly rises. The quickly swallowed coffee,
we transport our material on the rollers. The
landscape is only fog, but the rain ceased falling.
While we finish charging the kayaks, Hans Lars and
Naya join us on the beach for an ultimate photograph.
At 8 a.m., we leave them and put the course on
Kapisillit (where there are salmons) ultimate
village at the bottom of the fjord, about fifty
kilometers in north east. Navigation starts as with
the practice with the instruments, and to
considering the distance, we cross to shortest. The
downward tide helps us in our progression, enabling
us to maintain to 4 nodes (7 - 8 km/h) a good part
of the day. At the end of the morning, the fog rises
and leaves room to a low sky. One now distinguishes
the relief from the opposite coast. With far, an
island appears, behind it, a point of course in the
direction where we must go. By place, the mountains
with the silver plated side covered tear the clouds.
The decoration is always also imposing and the
distances are disproportionate. At 5 p.m., we fish a
cod and râlions the village.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Qornoq
64° 31' NR - 051° 05' W
Since the day before, the stove functions has full
in our small country cottage, giving to this one
paces of sauna. But the rain which does not cease
falling makes environment quite pleasant. We have
much delay on the treatment of our images and our
texts. Benefitting from the genius of Hans Lars who
knew to bring electricity in her residence thanks to
a coupled system of solar panels and a wind mill, we
unite the useful one for the pleasant one.
Throughout the day, between two coffees, we follow
one another on the PC which is as red as the stove.
In end of the afternoon, the rain ceases falling.
Low clouds are stretched and rolled up around the
reliefs. In the small handle which acts as port, of
the many blocks of ice are made push by the tide.
The village covers an important surface and its
residences are in excellent state. We are surprised
that such a place can be stripped of all the
services (water, electricity, shop, processing waste)
which would make of him an operational village. Even
the small church that nothing differentiates from
another, is not regarded any more as a place of
worship. We visit the small museum located in its
roofs and return with our hosts for one evening of
exchange which begin with a testimony from Hanz Lars,
which, is 55 years old took its retirement of sea
fisherman and yielded his trawler. He speaks to us
about the life of the village before his closing,
the lakes glaciers which descend the slopes of the
area now, and of mining which settle there and which
it fears more than all. We dine in their company
around a sumptuous table. Tomorrow, we leave early
but we promise to re-examine us, in Nuuk.
Monday, August 23,
2010
Navigation enters the peninsula Quingap NUA and
Qornoq: 17 kms
64° 23' NR - 051° 11' W /64 ° 31' NR - 051° 05' W
At 5 o'clock in the morning, only in the middle of
the immense fjord, us withes the still soaked tent
of moisture under a gray and low sky. At 8 a.m., we
leave our rock headland and put the course on Qornoq,
an old village closed down in the Sixties. We have
it into visual with 16 kms in front of, at the end
of the fjord. On several occasions, the current
obliges us to walk on out of crab in order not to
derive. With 11:30, we touch the village for the
pause lunch when the announced rain starts to fall.
The village is important and resembles a real
village except, that there is no infrastructure, not
shop. The houses are now second home. With ground,
one distinguishes some people and of the children
play on the bank. One living and her husband us
reception and invites us to come to shelter us close
to their residence where a smoking coffee awaits us.
They propose to us to remain in their appendix, one
charming small studio furnished and papered of wood,
and to spend the night on the spot. We hesitated, we
have much delay on our texts and our images, the
weather envisages one day been windy and rainy for
the following day, we accept their invitation. We
pass the evening in their residence, they tell us
their life and that of their village, while outside,
the rain
does not cease falling.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Navigation between Nuuk and the peninsula Quingap
NUA: 46 kms
64° 10' NR - 051° 44' W/64° 23' NR - 051° 11' W
As envisaged, the alarm clock sounds at 4 a.m.
Outside, the day is not raised yet, and a fog wraps
the city. The fabric of tent is entirely soaked.
Without waiting, we arrange our effects, it is
necessary for us to be in phase with the tide,
because of many fjords lead to Nuuk and the current
can be important there. 7 hours, we start in a
London environment. Whereas the city sleeps, a
whistle challenges us. Of its balcony, the arms in
the air, Loulou greet us. Two minutes later, it is
on the bank to wish us good road. Passed the city,
the fjord is only fog, and inaccessible coast. After
5 hours of total white, the luminosity affects the
vision. Only cartography GPS indicates our position.
Suddenly, one perforated, a top appears, the white
wadding, slowly, tears. Since the morning, and as
with each passage in the fjords, the points of
accosting are quasi non-existent. After 35 kms, we
find a corner to lunch. The vastness of the
decoration gives the giddiness. The distances are
interminable. The white scarf is always present and
is stretched with middle height, along the relief.
After 9:30 of paddle and 46 kms traversed, soft an
inclined granite flagstone enables us to assemble
the camp on a ground projection where, in the middle
of bilberries, we find vestiges of old civilizations.
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Nuuk
64° 10' NR - 051° 44' W
We lunch under a radiant sun, sitted in grass,
beside the tent, at the edge of a way, with a few
meters of the rollers, the foot of the first
University of the country. The place is peaceful,
alone some walkers accompany their dog there. We
make knowledge with Pia, a neighbor of Spitz.
Moreover, this one is not long in joining us. We
offer coffee to them, and then, they invite us to
follow them and make us a beauty in their residence.
Pia and her husband propose to us to follow them for
a guided visit of the city in the car. During this
time, Loulou prepares the lunch. Our driver shows us
all districts, all the streets, the city pleasant,
is made many coloured houses. We benefit from it to
return visit in Ole, of Sula Kayak, with which we
are in contact since many weeks. He proposes to keep
us the kayaks during the winter. On our return,
Loulou drew up a table on its terrace, vis-a-vis the
sea. Within sight of our advance, we envisage a loop
inside the fjords, to the village of Kapisillit,
before turning over on Nuuk. That is to say an
unforeseen course of 200 kms, double of the distance
covered in the cargo liner between Itilleq and
Kangamiut. At 8 p.m., the finished purchases, we
realize that we forgot alcohol with stove. Begin a
hunting for the treasure then, in the car, with a
neighbor of Spitz. It will be necessary for us to
visit six shops before finding it. The night already
fell when we tackle the dinner prepared by Nathalie.
Has 22 hours, we will lie down, because tomorrow,
tide and current oblige, it will have to be raised
early. The full moon is reflected on the sea.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Navigation enters the phantom city of Kangeq and
Nuuk, the capital: 21 kms
64° 06' NR - 052° 03' W/64° 10' NR - 051° 44' W
An east wind animates the fabric of tent. This one
is still in the shade, soaked moisture. The sky is
buckled. The city is always also deserted. Within
sight of the short distance which separates us from
the capital, we decide to temporize and await the
lull which arrives at the end of the morning, with a
beautiful blue sky. We leave to low tide and as we
expect it, the current is of face. On the course, to
decrease its
effect, we take the counter-currents with one meter
of cliff. We go up the coast towards north, before
starting the long crossing. In front of us, a whale
is made hear. In bay, blocks of ice to the drift
draw our attention. The last that having seen us are
those of the southern sector of Bay of Disko which
we left at the beginning of July. After two hours of
crossing, we touch the capital at the same time as a
blue ship decorated of an arc in sky, with on its
starboard, an inscription "Defending our ocean" like
a symbol, the boat of Greenpeace greets our arrival.
According to the infos of Philippe, our friend
kayaker met a few days earlier with Maniitsoq, we
accost on the quietest beach of the capital. A few
minutes later, a walker, accompanied by his two dogs
approaches us. It is about Spitz, French alive on
Nuuk since many years. One of these first note: "And
you are numerous like that, to travel by kayak? I
already crossed another kayaker travelling towards
north, fifteen days ago? "
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Navigation enters the islands and the phantom city
of Kangeq: 29 kms
64° 19' NR - 052° 06 W/64° 06' NR - 052° 03' W
The wind fell at the end of the night. Strange
impression not to hear noise more. Nothing any more
moves. Outside, the sky is blue and the flies remade
their appearance. SHORT-NAP CLOTH on the bulletin
weather. We decide to return to us in Nuuk by the
external road, and to pass by Kangeq, a now unused
village which is located on the peninsula at the
western south of Nuuk. In spite of a road far from
the coast, the many islands give an impression of
relative safety to us. Today, the current is with
us, and it is almost in full form that we arrive on
Kangeq. The village has paces of film set. With
ground, nothing moves. The lights are ideal. We make
a turn with our cameras.
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Islands
64° 19' NR - 052° 06 W
The aches of the navigation of the day before are
quite present when we decipher the bulletin of the
day. Following our remarks of the day before, Michel
answers us: "the data on this zone are variable.
Today, 8m/s southern south is, but however:
prudence". We hesitate to take one day of rest, when
45 minutes later, the first gusts give us the answer.
We measure 15, then 20 m/s (64 km/h). We supplement
the points of mooring of the tent, this one counts
25 suspending rods quickly, and takes the forms of a
parapente. We spend the day inside our fabric,
whipped by the wind. In end of the afternoon,
Nathalie measures a gust to 92 km/h.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Navigation enters the islands: 24 kms
64° 31' NR - 052° 09' W/64° 19' NR - 052° 06 W
After one night repairing, we leave the tent under a
radiant sun. Top of our headland, we distinguish the
other small islands, a such chain which is stretched
ad infinitum. A motorized boat Greenlandic master
key at high speed in the channel, not far from us.
It makes so good that we let ourselves try by a bath
in a fresh water point on our rock. Hardly we began
our navigation which a wind of the south rises. It
is done increasingly pressing, and at the end of one
hour, I am constrained to change paddle. The current,
as for him is hardly favorable. After one hour and
half, we hardly traversed only 5 kms. We agree an
installation lunch, hoping to see the things
evolving/moving, but it of it is nothing. All the
day, we will go from islands to islands, in this
labyrinth of rocks and water with a sun fixed well
in the south, like making our progression even
harder. In étroitures, we must cross small rapids.
After 6:30 of navigation, the arms are heavy and
tiredness is felt. In front of us, a beach, tightens
us the arms, it is surmounted by a small grassy
plate and many water points there are found. This
anticipated stop, enables us to settle and dine with
the sun. Vis-a-vis us, last the other bank, a long
assembly line is stretched towards the east and
announces the imminent arrival in the fjords of
Nuuk.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Navigation between Atammik and islands: 34 km
64° 48' NR - 052° 10' W/64° 31' NR - 052° 09' W
At 10 a.m., many people has a presentiment of
themselves in front of the school of the village.
Indeed, it is the return to school. The parents are
there welcome, a coffee waits there, but especially
the new pupils, here a girl and two boys are put at
the honor. The director makes a speech. Like their
parents, the pupils wear the Greenlandic traditional
dress. It is one great day, they are photographed by
the whole of the inhabitants of the village. A
Greenlander announces at the assembly that it is
also the birthday of Nathalie. Everyone comes to
congratulate it. At 11 a.m., gradually, the parents
leave the school. After some fresh product purchases,
we dismount the camp and will have a last coffee
with our friend Pavia. Around 2 p.m., we hear cries
top of the hill, and arms are agitated. The
villagers are with the current of our departure. We
greet Pavia while going in front of at his place. In
one moment, the fog wraps us and isolates to us from
the glances. Once more, we sail with the GPS, that
until in end of the afternoon, where a wind of
western north drains the mass of air and pushes us
through the small islands. We benefit from it to put
the veils, wind and current pushes us with more than
8 km/h. The sun is already low, and, after two
attempts, we find a good spot of exit inside a split,
where a granite flagstone assembles progression on
the high part of the relief. Surrounded by water
points, under the last rays of the sun, the place is
magic. For the birthday of Nathalie, a freeze-dried
chili con carne is accompanied by a bottle of Rioja.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Atammik
64° 48' NR - 052° 10' W
At 10 a.m., all the village was given go for the
mass and the baptism of small Ivaana. The occasion
for it to receive its first names. Because until now,
it does not have any of it. For the circumstance,
the church is crammed. The two months old little
girl arrives with her parents vêtus of the
traditional Greenlandic costume. When we regain the
tent, our neighbor, Pavia types with his squares to
invite us to have a coffee. We benefit from the
presence of his/her small children to question it on
his life and this phantom city near which intrigues
us. He is happy to inform us of his testimony and to
pose for the photograph. Later, it is in the
residence of small Ivaana, that another kafémik
awaits the whole of the inhabitants of the village.
On the terrace, and before crossing the step of the
door, of the Greenlandic mets accommodate the
inhabitants. Caribou bandages believed with its
still intact natural grass joke. At side, matak
(skin of whale) and dried cod. Inside the house, the
mets are more conventional, each one takes seat on
the drawn up tables, with each one of them of the
sets of pastry making. The inhabitants take turns,
thanking their hosts and leaving the place to the
following. The weather is very wet, we regain the
tent, to work on testimonys. The day are completed
by a fireworks which they do not hesitate to draw
with the vertical from our tent.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Navigation enters the phantom city of Tovqussas and
Atammik: 12 kms
64° 52' NR - 052° 12' W/64° 48' NR - 052° 10' W
Contrary to the day before, the sky is gray, but the
wind fell. While waiting for that the current is in
the good sense to cross the course, we benefit from
it to carry out some ultimate images. Navigation is
peaceful and we pass the course without any
difficulty. Once this one crossed, the wind rises.
Before joining the village, we recover a cod. The
kayaks left in the middle of the algae, with the
semi-tide, on the ultimate beach wedged at the
bottom of a split in the south of the village. It
takes us a small moment to find a site for the tent,
because here, all are occupied by recent or forsaken
dwellings. Hardly our found site, that we are
already invited for a kafemik. Pavia, 87 years
awaits us with his/her small children, in his very
close house. We benefit from it to carry out a
testimony of Pilunnguaq which stopped its studies
and which left its town of Narsaq, more in the south
to come to live here on Atammik, with his/her
boyfriend.
Friday, August 13, 2010
Navigation between Napasoq and the phantom city of
Tovqussaq: 23 kms
65° 02' NR - 052° 22' W/64° 52' NR - 052° 12' W
The fabric of tent is soaked. It reigns a fog to
cross to the knife. This one rises quickly. We
dismount the camp When our loading starts, the
inhabitants has a presentiment of themselves around
us and take to us in photograph with their cellphone.
We benefit from it to carry out a testimony with
Inunnguaq. Napasoq being on an island, we should
now join the coast. A wind of western northern north
and a swell help us there. Considering the short
distance, we hoped well to rejoin the city very
close to Atammik, but little before the course, the
wind forcit to 10 m/s. We have just time to enter to
put itself at the shelter, in the natural handle
which formerly sheltered the Danish city of
Tovqussaq, which within sight of the installations
still on the spot, was to treat and condition the
whales driven out in the sector. Many buildings are
still upright, but none is in state. We pass a good
part of the afternoon to carry out catches of sight.
Strange impression to remain in these villages,
where the man left his print, and which time takes
again little by little possession.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Navigation enters the entry of the fjord Kangia and
Napasoq: 19 kms
65° 11' NR - 052° 13' W/65° 02' NR - 052° 22' W
The fog yielded the place to a blue sky. We lunch
with the sun, appreciating the site and these
moments of quietude. Before embarking, I detach a
small bird taken in the nets assassins posed with
same the rock. The breeze which returns now inside
the fjord slowed down our progression. And the
straight broad outlines as far as the eye can see
lengthen the distances. Whereas we touch the islands
surrounding Napasoq, the fog adapts the places.
Cartography GPS and the motorized boats of the
fishermen, indicate the good channel to us. We touch
the village with low tide. Impossible to leave the
kayaks. It is necessary for us to attach them and
wait until the level of water goes up. In this
moment, we have spring tides of more than four
meters. They will spend the night, attaches with a
slope. Environment is wet and the quasi deserted
village. There is a festival of old in the communal
room which is organized with the old men of the
village of Atammik, come many.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Navigation between the hut in the south of Umanap
Tima and the entry of the Kangia fjord: 30 kms
65° 16' NR - 052° 32' W/65° 11' NR - 052° 13' W
Awaked by the corbels which hammer the roof of the
hut, like encouraging us to awake us and to benefit
from a radiant sun. The wind of north is already
quite present, and in spite of that, we start the
loading. We leave just after the high tide. That
brings us to the semi-tide to pass the next course.
The northern part occurs without difficulty, the
exit exposed to the south is more chaotic with the
presence of many rollers. The wind of north rises,
bringing with him its scarf of fog. We change
program, renonçant with the southern crossing full
and choose a contour by the interior of the fjords.
After a halt in an old station, of which there
remain only the foundations today, we join the fjord
more in the south by a étroiture, continued by the
fog. Bordered by long granite flagstones, we
distinguish the installations from a camp of fishing.
Boat, buoys of damping, nets, like two huts. This
one is deserted. Before joining it, we will recover
a cod, close to a rock small island in the vicinity.
We assemble the camp beside an old turned over boat,
in the middle of the first wood floated met on this
coast.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Navigation between Maniitsoq and the hut in the
south of Umanap Tima: 24 kms
65° 25' NR - 052° 53' W/65° 16' NR - 052° 32' W
Still in our sleeping bags, we hear noises near the
tent. Leaving the head this one, we see Philippe
preparing the breakfast on the very close table. The
night was short says us it. It benefitted from it to
prepare some questions. The sky is gray, and the
forecasts announce rain. Philippe helps us to carry
our kayaks. We promise ourselves to find us this
winter. We give our first blows of paddle. Beach, it
greets us. It was necessary little of them so that
our two roads without cross to meet us. In a fog to
be crossed to the knife, we sail with the
instruments, to join the coast with a dozen
kilometers from there. In way, two islands enable us
to blow. Wind and current slow down our progression.
The sea is formed, the waves roll on the bridge,
then the spray is stuck to the glasses, the
visibility is execrable. After 7 hours of
navigation, we see a hut of fishing which seems to
us tiny. A rock beam is used to us as slope, the hut
is douillette. Lit and heated by the candle, it will
be our de luxe hotel for the night.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Maniitsoq
65° 25' NR - 052° 53' W
After a breakfast, decorated crescents, we move
towards the center town. In spite of its many
buildings for the majority hung on rock headlands,
this one is not stripped of charm. Whereas we lunch
on a table with the sun, near the port, the captain
of the cargo liner of Royal Arctic which transported
us, comes to greet us. It resides on Maniitsoq. From
return on our beach, a couple comes to our meeting.
They organize turns in the kayak and multiple
activities of hunting and fishing at the bottom of
the fjords. They announce us the presence of another
French kayaker, on the beach of at side. Coming from
the south, it would travel towards north, but they
did not meet it. After the dinner, we go on the
close split, only separated by a rock monticule.
Near the cemetery and museum, is a small green tent.
With our call, a French voice answers us. We present
ourselves, and long and interesting evening starts.
Philippe, left last June since Nanortalik, in the
south Greenland, travels indeed towards north. He
sails as a recluse with a bulky two-seater
polyethylene kayak. Until late in the night, we
exchange our infos.
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Navigation enters the glaciers the fjord
Hamborgersund and Maniitsoq: 37
kms
65° 39' NR - 053° 03' W/65° 25' NR - 052° 53' W
Surveys at four o'clock in the morning. It is
necessary for us imperatively to leave our shelter
with high tide, on the same level as the day before.
Because, on a lower level, the zone chaotic, is made
sealing rocks and blocks the passage. With 6:30, we
embark under a gray sky, which will not leave us day.
With the top of our heads, peaks, languages
refrigerators thus of old moraines overhang us.
Little before arriving on the island of Maniitsoq, a
current of face is done increasingly present. We
decide to temporize, by a small halt, which is
transformed into collecting of moulds, follow-up of
a nap to compensate for the morning alarm clock. Two
hours later, the current weakened, we take again the
sea. With far the first buildings of the city take
shape, with the foot of which a double beach
tightens us the arms. We pass the first where a
cemetery is located, near which, we see a yellow,
drawn kayak on the quite sloping bank. We carry on
our road, us to install on broadest, table and
benches are arranged there, the ground is flat, the
district seems quiet, it will be our address on
Maniitsoq.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Navigation between Kangaamiut and glaciers in the
Hamborgersund fjord:
32 kms
65° 49' NR - 053° 20' W/65° 39' NR - 053° 03' W
At 6 a.m., whereas the city sleeps, we transport,
using our carriage, kayaks and material on one of
let us bridge at the entry of the city. Indeed, here,
not of beach, it is necessary for us to use the
floating platforms. With 9:15, per hour of the
semi-tide, we embark. When we pass under the balcony
of our friends, three silhouettes greet us. We are
turned over on several occasions, while raising the
arms, while our kayaks continue to advance. The
swell of the day before is still quite present.
Halfway of the crossing of the fjord, the sea grows
hollow and of small beachcombers start to take to us
by through. Time is calm, it does not have there
wind, indeed, and it would not be necessary large
thing, so that the crossing becomes delicate.
Thereafter, navigation is done pleasant in the
middle of small islands and of passages where one
passes some fast patrol boats. With the point of the
course, sumptuous glaciers, take shape in front of
us. After the installation, we engage in the fjord
Hamborgersund, true royal roads, one of the most
beautiful landscapes than we saw since Isfjord d'
Ilulissat. Made cliffs, and old moraines, the zone
was indicated to us like not very approachable. On
northern bank, vis-a-vis four glaciers, we unearth
an exit and in one moment, we decide after 32 kms
there to establish our camp and to benefit from the
last rays of the sun in a place of a rare beauty.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Kangaamiut
65° 49' NR - 053° 20' W
The day before, on the outlet side of the cargo
liner, we did not have that little choice to
assemble our tent. The village is built all in
length with blank of rocks, where cling coloured
houses, connected between them by a cobweb of
staircases. With the foot the city, a channel all in
length, protected by a series from small islands
acts as port. Hardly began our exploration of the
city, cameras to the hand, which we are challenged
by Per. Having informed that we think of leaving the
city the very same day, it informs us of a bulletin
weather announcing a wind of 18 m/s for the day. We
are in the tread, guest to divide the lunch with
Jensine, his wife and her Madaline friend whom we
had met on the village of Kitsissuarsuit. Their
residence is completely atypical, true bric and
pitcher of artisanal objects, statuettes, tables,
and racks covered with books. The curtains which
decorate the windows, give a side couzy. Since their
terrace, where a musky beef stock coldly driven out,
waits to be cut out, we look at the state of the sea,
the crossing of the fjord which carries out towards
the south.The zone is considered chaotic. It is at
this time that Albrech, ghost of Maniitsoq with his
small family arrives in the port. It assure us
conditions bad for the kayak. In end-of-day, whereas
the wind seems to drop, the fog adapts the places.
Blow, we accept the invitation of our friends, and
with them, let us prepare the evening. Nathalie is
even requisitioned for the cutting of musk oxen.
After succulent fritters of cod and a left pancake,
we have evil to leave our hosts. We have known them
only for a few hours, but of share our exchanges,
that seem to be years.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Itilleq - Kangaamiut - Displacement in boat cargo
liner
66° 34' NR - 053° 30' W/65° 49' NR - 053° 20' W
There is less than 12 midnight, the forecasts
weather announced 3 meters of swell (on an exposed
coast) and 15 to 20 m/s southern southern western.
This morning, as by enchantment, a powerful
anticyclone made its appearance and the sea is a
genuine mirror. Nevertheless, the situation remains
unstable, it is necessary for us to make up for
accumulated lost time and to readjust us with our
planning, Without what, finished the reports and our
navigation would change into against the watch, to
arrive within the deadlines. With 12:15, with nearly
one hour in advance, we charge kayak and material in
the small cargo liner with Royal Arctic Line which
supplies every fifteen days, the villages on this
part of the coast. The only thing which is not still
validated, is the place of unloading. The tickets
are reserved until Maniitsoq, but we plan to leave
to the first stop, in Kangamiut. We carry out most
of the way on the footbridge with the commander, as
if we do not wish to miss one thousand by
navigation. Per moment, the slowed down ferry,
operation, position as well as possible in the
channel which crosses the multiple small islands
with sometimes three meters of water under its hull.
On arrival on the village of Kangamiut, we go down
in the cabin from the captain and consult the last
bulletin weather. The situation for the days to come
seems correct, not prolonged disturbances. A few
minutes later, when the mooring ropes are released,
top of the footbridge, the captain greets us. With
each one its navigation.
From Thursday, July
29 to Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Itilleq
66° 34' NR - 053° 30' W
Our days take forms of routine. We are always
installed in the building of the nursery for
children, which dominates the village. Really all
comfort, it we have misses us only Internet which we
consult since the shop. We work on our photographs
and our testimonys. As of on July 30th, the wind is
reinforced to break out in the evening. The 31, the
sun illuminates a formed sea. All the consulted
sites of weather envisage winds with more than 10
m/s of southern sector. We are at the worst place to
see the state of the sea, being protected by a
course, in the south, but on other side, according
to the buildings, it is the hell. The exit of
impressive Sondre Stromfjord worsens and complicates
the situation.
August 1st, it is the opening of the shooting season
to musk ox and the caribou. The village is emptied,
the boats leave in the still protected sectors. The
wind of the south is reinforced, the fog and the
rain puts part. Boats come from north and travelling
towards the south, are them also blocked, and start
to pile up in the small port. We are surprised to
find there small trawlers and other well motorized
boats. Some remain here during more than four days.
What disturbs us more, it is the unreliability of
the forecasts which we consult. For example, one
announces to us a wind from 15 to 20 m/s of southern
sector with rain and a continuous degradation for
the week, the following day, all changed, it does
not have there more wind. Without that becoming
navigable. Many low pressures circulate in the
sector, around Greenland. In short, one loses our
Latin of it, and in addition to that, the nights
arrive and are marked more and more. It is now
difficult for us to sail of night. We also benefit
from this blocking to carry out new testimonys,
inter alia, that of Hans Enoksen, the former Prime
Minister of Greenland, which returned to live in its
native village, and manages the shop. He does not
speak English, he will be necessary to translate all
his answers. Our friends, Astrid and David, who had
left to sell fish and to drive out musk ox, with
Kangerlussauq return after several days, them so
blocked by the successive strong gales. Before they
set out again on Sisimiut, we make an interview of
David, that Astrid translates for us, on his trade
of hunter and fishing professional and of the polar
bear which arrived here at the end of May. Michel,
our router, announces a progressive improvement to
us by specifying that there is necessary to remain
careful, the situation being able to evolve/move and
change radically. Within sight of the time which
passes, on the most exposed zone in which we are, we
decide to benefit from the passage of the ferry (every
15 days), the 5 in the village, to cross Sondre
Stromfjord, without knowing for the moment, if we
will go down on Kangaamiut or Maniitsoq.
August 4th, we have the surprise to see all the
small family Albrech to come to see us to the
nursery. They are them also remained blocked 6 days
on Sisimiut while waiting for better conditions to
go in Maniitsoq, towards the south. Albrech and
Pauline bring back Karen and the children on their
premises, and will benefit from it to go to drive
out musk ox towards Kangerlussuaq. During all this
time, we rested, but it delays us to take again
navigation.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Itilleq
66° 34' NR - 053° 30' W
This morning, it falls from the cords
on the tent. The forecasts give wind for at least 48
hours. We will take refuge in the school and will
lunch there.
With 14:30, the Diamond (boat of
French cruising) made stopover in front of Itilleq.
One moment later, a flood of tourists, very of red
vêtus is poured by a round of zodiacs. The sun is of
return, we will join them. With them a team unloads
which carries out photographs of mode. The
accessories left, the model is equipped, the catches
of sight start. Our friend, Nicolas Dubreuil, Arctic
guide, fact left the plate and it is with pleasure
that we will greet it. The collection autumn-winter
2011 ravels under our eyes. The colors are
claquantes and the coloured frontages of the small
houses are matched with the various models. All that
under the glance perplexed of our Greenlandic
friends.
With 19:00, a such mirage, tourists,
photographers, model, disappear as quickly as they
arrived.
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Itilleq
66° 34' N - 053° 30' W
Whereas we hardly had just made up
for lost time on our program of navigation, Michel
our router announces a weather deplorable to us for
the week to come. Rain, swell, but especially
constant wind. Except for the nights that we pass
under the tent, history not to accustom us to too
much comfort, we now established our districts in
the small school which overhangs the village. True
luxury, with broad workspace, cooks equipped,
running water, etc… Entourée of picture windows, we
scan time with other, the horizon with the
binocular.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Itilleq
66° 34' N - 053° 30' W
It rains, and like all the week end,
the village is practically deserted. Our hardly
finished breakfast, Ruttsi comes to seek us with the
tent for an interview programmed the day before.
Julie, one living of Itilleq, old from 81 years,
awaits us at it to answer our questions. In its
small interior, in front of a coffee and slices of
bread and butter, she tells us her past. Life to
help his/her father, thereafter his husband, the
long ones taken care in community, and the time
which is ruined.
At 7 p.m., having put a note on the
place of the village, the inhabitants are invited to
join us in the common room, and to visualize the
audio-visual assembly of the tour of the last year.
A score of them make displacement. When images and
music stop, their applause suits us right in the
middle.
Friday, July 23, 2010
Itilleq
66° 34' N - 053° 30' W
We begin the day by a visit with the
shop to decorate our breakfast in fresh produce and
viennoiseries. Spontaneously, the owner gives us the
keys of the school in order to install us there and
to find shower there and medical. This last, we will
learn it thereafter is neither more nor month that
Hans Enoksen, a politician of first order of
Greenland, which for one year has returned to live
here, in its village.
By seeking anti-inflammatory drugs in
our case of help, we note with astonishment, that
this one does not contain any. Since the day before,
a pain with the bottom of the back obstructs Alain
terribly. That gives the opportunity to us to visit
the yellow small house, the hospital, which after a
telephone call on Sisimiut, delivers us about thirty
compressed thoroughly counted.
The day is radiant, we benefit from
it to make a large detergent. The inhabitants are
accessible, in the main office of the Commune,
coffee and small cookies are proposed to us. We
discuss with each villager who finds himself in
front of the stage of foot.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Navigation enters the ïle of Ragfik
and Itilleq: 21 lms
66° 43' N - 053° 30' W/66° 34' N -
053° 30' W
For early this morning, the baro has
been in freefall. However, the received infos let to
us hope for one day of navigation. A small score of
kilometers separate us from the village, and a wind
of north-eastern sector pushes us in the right
direction. Without delaying, we leave before the
zone where we are does not empty with the low tide.
One hour later, the situation becomes complicated.
The current is opposed to the wind, on a zone of
shallow waters, with a swell of through. The kayaks
heavily charged leave to surfing, in spite of our
wish, navigation is done increasingly sporting. We
shelter temporarily on an small island, history to
blow and make a visual point on the route to follow.
The village of Itilleq is not any more very far, we
decide to continue. Two hours later, a committee of
reception, helped of a wheelbarrow, transports our
material and installs our tent behind the church,
vis-a-vis the sea, and on the best spot of the
village. In premium, one offers to us even a salmon
trout, coldly fished.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Navigation between Sisimiut and the
ïle of Ragfik: 31 kms
66° 57' N - 053° 41' W/66° 43' N -
053° 30' W
To earlier recover our goods,
dispatched three months on Sisimiut, we have, the
day before, bench our camping vis-a-vis the city, on
the single sand beach ever met in the country. Above
us, the road leading to the airport overhangs us. As
of the first hour, Nathalie leaves in stop direction
Royal Arctic Line, in order to recover part of our
effects there. We only take what is useful for us,
the remainder is dispatched on the capital, Nuuk,
with a little less than 500 kilometers from there.
Because it should be said, we are with the
semi-course. The meter posts 485 kms since our
departure of Ilulissat. At the beginning of
afternoon, the reloaded boats, the dismounted camp,
we take again our navigation. We cross the city by
the small inner harbor. There we would have liked to
remain a few times, but we hardly have just caught
up with part of our delay, and it still remains us
of great exposed sectors, where we are likely there
to undergo the risks of the weather and to remain
blocked. We thus leave Sisimiut behind we and put
the course on an archipelago of islands located on
the axis of our next halt, the village of Itilleq
which we think of reaching tomorrow. Around 9 p.m.,
we make stage in the middle of a maze of rocks and
algae. We finish the day with 31 kms and a
restocking express train, in short, a roundly
carried out day.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Navigation enters the ïle of
Akorngata Qaqa and Sisimiut: 14 kms
67° 01' N - 053° 47' W/66° 57' N -
053° 41' W
According to the received last infos,
the conditions are judicious being calm. Outside, it
of it is nothing. For five hours of the morning, a
wind of southern sector of 12m/s (more than 40 km/h)
has shaken our tent. A procession of low clouds
circumvent the high reliefs in front of us. We think
initially of a local and specific phenomenon, but
this one lasts for ever. For finally decreasing by
half in intensity in end of the afternoon. The air
is icy. We pass a good part of the day, well with
the shelter, inside the tent. 17 hours: the
situation seems to improve, we dismount the camp has
19 hours, we give the first blows of paddle on the
straight line which lead us to Sisimiut, semi-course
of our program 2010, where a deposit of freeze-dried
dishes and other effects await us. When we assemble
the camp vis-a-vis the city, the visibility is not
any more but of 150 meters. The fog took again
possession of the places. To the meter, our GPS
indicate 485 kms since the departure.
Monday, July 19, 2010
Navigation enters the Ukivik island,
crossing of the course Kangarssuk and the island of
Akorngata Qaqa: 28 kms
67° 13' N - 053° 53' W/67° 01' N -
053° 47' W
Time is radiant, and the visibility
one cannot clear any more. Strange feeling to
discover the landscape with through which we walked
on the day before in the fog. In spite of these
ideal conditions, we leave the small island of
Ukivik and its hut that with 16:30. That in order to
benefit from the best cycle of the tide for the
delicate passage of the course Kangarssuk, envisaged
three hours later. Been on the fjord Sondre Isortoq,
a power pushes our kayaks to 9 km/h through the
undertow and of the swell. Around 8 p.m., we double
the course once more, photographed by a Greenlandic
boat. We walk on through the small covered small
islands of algae, under a shaving sun, with front us
it mountain overhanging the town of Sisimiut.
Synonym of the semi-course of this program 2010,
which should reach to us at the time of the next
stage.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Navigation since the southern sector
of Nordre Stromfjord in the Ukivik island - 24 km
67° 23' N - 053° 48' W/67° 13' N -
053° 53' W
Our camp dominates bay emptied by the
low tide. Behind us, an undulating plain goes up to
the mountains still strewn with firns. That made a
long time that we had not seen reliefs. As announced
by the weather, we have a northern wind of sector.
With him, with far starts to appear benches of fog.
On the coast, the fog masks the blue sky gradually.
Hardly finished charging the kayaks, a white wadding
wraps us. The visibility does not exceed the 200
meters. In spite of that, we decide to go there. We
sail with the GPS, regularly pointing the relief
which is in front of us and from which we
distinguish hardly the form. A16 H, with full tide,
we have difficulties in progress on the passages of
course. The current and the contrary swell return
navigation chaotic with speeds hardly exceeding 2
km/h. After the installation, with the semi-tide,
the current becomes again favorable. Confirmation if
it is that for the delicate passages, our window of
navigation is between the downward semi-tide and the
rising semi-tide. Now, only we miss the visibility.
This situation is testing and us constrained to
regularly point our road through the multiple small
islands which we do not distinguish. Towards 20:00,
passing near a hut, on the island of Ukivik, we
decide to stop our navigation, impossible to cross
the fjord Sondre Isortoq, to leave its bay under
these conditions. The hut clean, is equipped with a
broad bench of bed and a true table. Two windows
with double glazing act as greenhouse. 19° interior
contrast with those of the 3° which we had during
navigation. True quite salutary refuge in these
circumstances.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Navigation enters the camp of fishing
and the south of Nordre Stromfjord. 41 kms.
67° 38' N - 053° 39' W/67° 23' N -
053° 48' W
10:30, we leave the camp of fishing,
under greets our one evening old companions and a
blue sky. A breeze of face quickly leaves its place
to an increasingly marked swell. On the first
course, we pass a high-speed motorboat which
approaches us to require in English, which we do
here and our direction. They photograph us before
carrying on their road, Ilulissat destination, for a
tournament of foot. The swell now reaches 1,50 m and
we advance to 2 km/h. That resembles conditions of
navigation in the Mediterranean, with the current in
premium. Our objective is to position us more close
possible of Nordre Stromfjord in order to crossing
it to high tide. The progression being increasingly
hard, we turn back and will shelter at the bottom of
a bay. After two hours of installation and a good
lunch, new attempt. The swell is always there, but
the current was reversed. With far, a clear band
appears. The fjord cancels the swell. We seize this
opportunity, and we engage in the crossing.
Supervising our drift on the pointer of the GPS,
this one happens under the best conditions. Once the
crossed fjord, we are in a maze of small islands and
algae, where once more, our electronic cartography
is to us of a great utility. At more midnight, after
having gone along a zone of cut out reefs, we will
be posed at the bottom of a well protected bay. We
are accommodated by the cries of a fox which does
not cease observing us, followed a few moments later
by three reindeers to majestic wood.
Friday, July 16, 2010
Navigation between Attu and the camp
of fishing. 39 kms.
67° 56 `N 6.053° 37' W/67° 38' N -
053° 39' W
The sky is radiant, a light fog
circulates with broad, the northern wind of sector
is in the right direction to push us. Towards 11:00,
Pauline, Karen and Nugat witness our final
preparations of loading. Ultimate embraces, ultimate
photographs with the two kayakers. The moment of the
departure arrived. Behind us, remain the memories.
After having greeted Albrech with the fisheries,
course in the south where we benefit from the good
orientation of the wind to put the veils. They do
not carry of anything the boat but reduce
considerably its load and bring a small supplement
speed to us. In the étroiture which leads to the
fjord, we meet many swirls, without for all this
that obstructs us in our progression. In the
interior channel, the conditions are optimum. Around
9 p.m., after 39 kms, we reach the camp of fishing.
Many boats are already at station. The exit with low
tide is more delicate, we are made help, to give off
the kayaks of their bad posture, on the rocks
covered with algae. With five tents, the camp of
fishing has paces of campsite. They established
several smoking-rooms, and driers for salmon trouts.
The flies are always there, only parade: to remain
in the wind. We invite the buildings to take the
coffee, and in their turn, invite us to divide
whale.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Attu
67° 56' N - 053° 37' W
A Breton drizzle replaces the rains
of the day before. The conditions are calm, we could
almost have sailed, if Albrech did not make us share
its desire day before for tasting with the French
kitchen. In front of the lack of choice of the local
shop, we choose a fish dish. There are tons of cod
to the fisheries. We find vegetables frozen, eggs,
garlic, it will be a garlic mayonnaise. When to 4
p.m., we pass in kitchen and thread the apron, our
friends photograph us under all the seams. The come
evening, we await the verdict, because the fish they
know. Finally it will be “mamaq” (very good),
unanimously. With 20:00, the photographs of the
chiefs and garlic mayonnaise dish circulate already
on Facebook.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Attu
67° 56' N - 053° 37' W
Since the day before, the downpour is
ceaseless. In the course of day, the wind forcit up
to 12 m/s (more than 40 km/h). This disturbance had
been announced for several days, from where our
decision to remain on the spot. There is not indeed,
more village until Sisimiut, distant of 130 kms. But
the largest difficulty remains the crossing of
Nordre Stromfjord, as well as other fjords quite as
impressive, and other courses, in a sector where the
high funds are omnipresent. It will be necessary for
us to approach all these difficulties under the best
conditions, and to cross the most critical zones
with high tide. Taking into account the days which
pass, and of our delay on our planning, we seriously
consider the possibility of not finishing our tour
on Nuuk, but on Maniitsoq. In this possibility, it
will be necessary for us to anticipate and react
quite front. Part of our material being already on
Nuuk. In short, all will depend on the weather. We
do not regret of anything our choice, to have seized
opportunities which arised on our road, even if for
that, it is necessary for us to re-examine our
organization.
In the course of the day, the Danish
house was hoisted on the square of the green small
house of Pauline and Albrech, who celebrate the
birth, last night of their little girl. As to
accustomed, for the circumstance, the inhabitants of
the village are invited to a kaffemik, where
multitudes of cakes house were prepared during the
night.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Attu
67° 56' N - 053° 37' W
The head still full with the images
of the day before, we go Trier to the communal
house. The announced strong gale gradually shifted
one day, and will touch our position from here less
than 12 midnight.
In end of the afternoon, a moutonneux
sky, with the multiple nuances of gray flies over us
at high speed. Interior of the dwelling of Albrech
and Pauline, we are so to speak in half-board, the
sea start to be flattened, the water surface brushed
towards north. Pauline proposes to us to spend the
night under her roof. We thank it by specifying to
him that we keep his offer in the event of absolute
need. Installed well, in our shelter of fabric, we
are shaken by violent gusts. All the night, the rain
hammers the double roof, but we remain well with
dryness.
Monday, July 12, 2010
Attu
67° 56' N - 053° 37' W
At 5 p.m., Karen proposes to us to
take a rapid dinner with them and to follow them on
the island of Umanaq. The sun is radiant, the sea is
calm, we accept their proposal. After fifteen
minutes, we touch the island, at the bottom of a
small bay. On the bank in against day, of smoke
rise, materializing several hearths. A multitude of
boats is already with damping and when we put foot
at ground, it seems that the entire village moved.
Not need for translation to include/understand what
it occurs, such of the fluorescent ants, a multitude
of men were affairent around a dark mass, the sea is
tinted of red, we arrive in full cutting-up of the
single whale allotted to the village for the year.
Whereas we jump both on our material of catch of
sight, I am harpooned to come to hoist with the men
the imposing mass. The first traction is surprising
and in spite of the number of arms, the cord seems
to be attached to the mountain. The operation will
be repeated on several occasions, in a brush of
flesh and matak (skin of whale). During this time,
the women and the children prick screw. One comes to
seek us to taste the first pieces of meat mijotée
and free with which wants outward journey to be
useful on the tail of the whale, to take pieces of
matak.
We carry out some images of the event
of course, under a low-angled light, in the middle
of the mosquitos, the boots in a sea of blood. After
four hours of a work of ants, eleven equitable heaps
are gathered and are drawn with the fate for the
eleven people having taken part in hunting.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Attu
67° 56' N - 053° 37' W
The bulletin weather for the days to
come is not encouraging. Afterwards, two beautiful
days, a disturbance should block us in a zone that
it is necessary for us absolutely to pass with the
best conditions: the sector of Nordre Stromfjord. We
decide, in spite of the good weather to remain on
the village. At the end of the morning, Nathalie
solicits our friends for an exit fishes. Time to
find a pilot for their boat, and us here are
parties. We thought of fishing in the islands, it is
missed. The course is put full south at more than 20
miles (40 kms) of the village.
We arrive in full cutting of nets of
Eqaluk (salmon trout) while the smoking-rooms dug in
the peat function with full mode. We are with the
camp of fishing of the brother of Pauline. He is
there with his wife during two weeks. They installed
a true camp there, with tents, driers. We take again
the sea to return to us at the bottom of a
Equalugssuit fjord and to reach the river bearing
the same name. The landscape is imposing, bubbling
water, the sufficiently green valley. A true film
set. During more than one hour, we let unroll our
line, But in vain. Pavia offers some to us to dine
it on the evening. Return to the camp of fishing
where we undergo a true attack of flies which
prevent us from dining, and makes us escape.
Whereas we were descended by the
interior channel, we go up by the coast, which by
its lack of beaches and its contours rock, seems
hospital to us. The high funds are numerous and the
current is definitely visible.
A quite beautiful day, with a
location for our future stage, in premium.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Attu
67° 56' N - 053° 37' W
Whereas we are carrying out catches
of sight in the village, Karen comes to inform us
that with his small family, they are on the point of
leaving for the island Umanaq for the day, and that
a place awaits us in the boat. Time to recover our
effects and of what pricks to screw, us here are
propelled by the 80 horses of the engine except
edge. Whereas we expect an exit fishes, it is an
exit excursion. The firmly fastened boat, we start
the rise of the southern slope of the island. With
the passage, our friends show us in the falls, an
old Inuit shelter, where rest still two craniums and
of the human bones. Over this morning, the fog
agreed to be moved back, but its white scarves is
had a presentiment of on the northern part of the
island. The archipelago is discovered with the son
of our rise, but once the top reached, the sight
with 360° is fairy-like. Top of our 280 meters, it
is possible for us to visualize the course of our
four last stages. An imposing barded transmitting
relay of solar panels and platform helicopter
contrasts with the usual Greenlandic style.
After a lunch on the rocks near the
boat, we embark for the visit of another sector of
the island, place of an old Inuit village named
Qooqa, where many foundations of houses and burials
covered with heap of stones are still visible.
Without delaying, we put the course on Attu, the fog
having decided that the break had lasted enough.
Friday, July 9, 2010
Attu
67° 56' N - 053° 37' W
The days are followed and do not
resemble. The fog is still of the part. When at the
beginning of afternoon, it rises a time is little
and leaves room to a gray and low sky. Blow, we will
return visit in Albrecht to the fisheries, of which
he is the owner. Its activity is primarily based on
the treatment of cod. Throughout the day, a score of
employees, prepare, cut out, salt and condition
paperboards which they put on pallets bound for
Spain.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Attu
67° 56' N - 053° 37' W
The tiredness of the stage of the day
before is still felt, when we start our breakfast.
In a strange environment, where sun, blue sky and
benches of fog mix. No the movement either on Baloum
Gwen which wets with a few meters of us in small
bay. A strong pain with the right shoulder of Alain,
makes us leave for the first anti-pains and
anti-inflammatory drugs the first-aid kit. After a
small visit of the village, the small crew of Baloum
Gwen comes to recover us for a lunch on board.
Considering time, the aperitif is taken on the
bridge, decorated of a salad of Honckenya, (mud pit
of the seas) which one finds on the rollers of the
beaches. Thierry invites us to go down in the square
where a kidney bean cassoulet awaits us, accompanied
for the red wine circumstance. The exchanges go good
progress, but Baloum Gwen must take again the sea.
At 5 p.m. we leave the edge, to greet them later,
whereas they move away gently in the fog.
We do not only remain very a long
time, because the hospitality of our neighbors leads
us to pass a new evening with them. Kristina, which
lives in Thulé, on the extreme north of Greenland,
gives us information to come to see it. After the
dinner, Albrecht gives us infos as for the route to
follow more in the south. Following that, which is
not our surprise to see it again organizing a
dresser containing Matak (skin) and dried meat of
bélouga, of Eqaluk, a fish fished and smoked by
their care, accompanied by dried cod, and other mets
whose our hosts have the secrecy.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Navigation between Iginiarfik and
Attu - 37 kms
68° 08' N - 053° 10' W/67° 56' N -
053° 37' W
We would have remained longer on
Iginiarfik, but within sight of the weather, and an
appointment awaits us Agto. Indeed, our friends of
Baloum Gwen, return of Uummannaq, must cross our
road on the village of Agto, this evening even. We
leave Iginiarfik under a low sky and a reduced
visibility. A head wind with our road, obliges us to
optimize our navigation by carrying out crossings,
without same seeing the opposite coast. Ole having
given us the information day before on the spots of
fishing, we obtain our first keys, but without to
concretize, because the most beautiful catch,
released us, with a few centimetres of surface.
Under a low sky and always wind of face, the day
seems to us interminable. In this maze of rocks and
water, impossible to find its road without a double
cartography, paper and GPS. We regularly point
points of turn and in spite of that, our judgment is
often put failing this.
At 8 p.m., after 8 hours of
navigation, the village is in considering. Whereas
we fish our first cod, outgoing fog, the silhouette
of Baloum Gwen moves towards us. The arms are
agitated, Thierry congratulates us on our precision
and together we arrive on Agto. Before to have put
the feet at ground, the first contacts with the
inhabitants are more cordial. The fishermen who
cross us greet us, speak to us, behind the windows,
the arms are agitated, and hardly touched our point
of unloading, an small group comes to our meeting to
help us to leave our boats. Whereas Baloum Gwen did
not throw ink yet, we are already comfortably
installed for a hot and a true dinner of narval and
reindeer. About fifteen people are in the common
part, and around the large table, a tournament of
charts animated beats full sound. We warmly thank
them for this reception and will assemble the tent,
with a few meters of water, near a small trawler out
of wooden, failed. Our hardly assembled camp, the
appendix of Baloum Gwen awaits us to go on board and
to share with them the evening. Pleasant and
convivial strong moment which is prolonged late in
the evening.
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Iginiarfik
68° 08' N - 053° 10' W
One day under the sun, that always
goes up the moral one. Moreover, the contact with
the buildings is reserved less than for
Ikerasarssuaq, the preceding village. After a visit
of the village, Ole requires of us to follow it to
see a characteristic site. And without same having
time to pose our effects with the tent, we are
parties for an excursion. Heights, we appreciate in
the passing, the multiple cut out shapes of the
fjords which meet. Half an hour later, the goal is
reached and we are to photograph by Ole in front of
a large round stone, having the resonance of a bell
when it is hammered. The return to the village east
followed by a kafemik. We finish the evening at
another Ole, a young communal employee, speaking
correctly English, who had invited us for the
evening. He says to us that he works only two days
per week with the Commune, that the majority of
people of the village must manage by themselves.
That the policy of Greenland supports only the big
cities and that this Iginiarfik village will
certainly have disappeared within twenty years.
Monday, July 5, 2010
Navigation between Ikerasarssuk and
Iginiarfik - 14 kms
68° 08' N - 053° 25' W/68° 08' N -
053° 10' W
11:30, some blows of paddle in
direction of the very close shop, history to restock
our stock with stove. For this half stage, the two
villages being distant of less than 15 kms,
navigation is first of all serene, under a blue sky
and with gentle breeze through which obstructs us of
nothing. The arrival, wind of face more muscular, is
located at the bottom of a fjord, right in the
middle of a venturi. But which idea did they have to
be put in such a place?
15:30, we thought of buying fresh
produce. No the chance, the shop is already closed.
It should be said that the schedules are
minimalists. 9 - 11 and 13 - 15:00
In end of the afternoon, the camp is
finally into full with wind, with the variation of
the score of houses which compose the village.
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Ikerasarssuk
68° 08' N - 053° 25' W
Gray sky, fog, 90% of moisture, 5°.
In this Sunday morning, we agree a sleep in of
circumstance. The sea is a mirror, temptation is
strong to advance towards the bottom of the fjord
and the very next city is distance from very small
about fifteen kilometers. But considering ambient
moisture, the temperature, and the lack of
visibility, we choose an ultimate day here. Of
return on the village, we note that small the
appendix of the grocer is always open. We shelter
and work there on our various files. The village is
always also deserted and the rare buildings of a
surprising discretion.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Ikerasarssuk
68° 08' N - 053° 25' W
Charged with our linen for a large
detergent, we survey the relief direction the
village. Indeed, we can reach it only by the
heights. Half an hour later, we discover a labyrinth
of staircases leading to the low part where the shop
and the unloading dock are located. The village
seems to be built in two times. The most recent
houses are perched on the heights, each one posed on
a headland rock and served by long staircases.
Except for an small group of children playing balls,
the village is deserted. Radiant day and blue sky,
light wind of west until in end of the afternoon,
where the fog obliges us to regain our camping fault
quickly of mislaying us and of not more finding the
way skirting cliffs.
Friday, July 2, 2010
Navigation between Kangatsiaq and
Ikerasarssuk - 25 kms
68° 18’ N - 053° 18' W/68° 08' N -
053° 25' W
The luminosity of the sun, combined
with information weather of the day draws us from
the tent. The wind having to forcir in the afternoon
and to be maintained in next 48 h. Two hours and
half more, on the 11 hours blow, we start our
navigation, which for once, will be carried out in
integrality by back wind. With the program, two
beautiful crossings of 7 kms into full give the
opportunity to us to leave our veils. Small incident
in the course of road, the only GPS validates
déprogramme during a change of piles. Impossible to
keep its position on the compass. Considering the
vastness of the places, that makes our point of
aiming much more approximate, especially with the
sun of face. 15:00, we are posed in front of the
shop of Ikerasassuk, history to recover some fresh
produce there. No the place to bivouac in the middle
same of the village and let us take the advice, by
shifting us of 500 meters towards the east where a
double beach is, with in its medium, a beautiful
flat ground, which more is well sheltered by rocks,
wind which starts to blow in gusts.
Thursday the 1st er July 2010
Navigation between Qeqertarssuatsiaq
and Kangatsiaq - 18 kms
68° 25' N - 053° 14' W/68° 18 N -
053° 18' W
Taking into account the short
distance to be realized with the next city, we agree
a little respite and start at any beginning of
afternoon, after a oursinade. Navigation under a
gray sky, through the islands, and when the sun
points the end of its nose, the fog follows it in
the tread. We arrive on the town of Kangatsiaq in a
true environment “Hamiltonniène”, the city is
located on the end of a course and gives on the two
slopes. Whereas we despaired to find a place to stop
us, a small split gives on the kayak local club and
of the private habitantions. A few square meters of
flat ground will make the deal. Moisture is
intolerable, the fog is to be crossed to the knife,
we take refuge in the tent, when our neighbors
invite us to take a kafémik in their very close
house.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Navigation between Manermiut and
Qeqertarssuartsiaq - 32 kms
68° 35' N - 053° 07' W/68° 25' N -
053° 14' W
We leave Manermiut at the end of the
morning. Nothing to change, navigation is done under
a sky and with a light head wind. Having hardly made
ten kilometers, we are wrapped by the fog and naps
constrained to stop on a point of course.
We keep the relief in visu. We remain
on our kayaks and let us benefit from it to fish. At
the end of a score of minutes, always nothing. Just
seals around us. The fog rose and we can again
advance. The end of course is animated by a scene
which we had seldom seen. Two whales offer an
imposing spectacle to us. The mother, upside down,
violently strike water with her tail while the
whale-calf turns near it. With many recoveries, it
is put on the back, the two fins in the air,
repeating the scene beside the icebergs blocked on
the high funds. One hour later, whereas we decide to
leave them, they decide to offer some brought closer
visits to us, passing between us two and on several
occasions under the kayaks. This moment, confidence
as for their intentions is quite relative. We still
see many whales in the sector. Impossible to fish
under these conditions, no cod would put the head
outside. Within sight of the low tide, without very
leaving the kayaks, we collect some sea urchins. But
which contrast with Bay of Disko, to put the hands
in water is here, a true torment. Around 7 p.m., we
arrive at Qeqertarssuatsiaq, old such a closed down
station, it, and unload with 800 meters of the
village, on large granite flagstones, having been
used for failing and cutting out the whales it.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Phantom city of Manermiut
68° 35' N - 053° 07' W
Strange impression to reside in an
old abandoned city. With beginning of the year 60,
the Danish Government decided to move all the
communities lower than a hundred inhabitants.
We start a visit of the places and
buildings still in place. Most important makes
office of building of reception for the summer
camps, or school camps. A dependence behind which we
sheltered is more recent and was arranged in sauna,
certainly to encourage the young people to prick a
head in moderate water of the sector. Three other
buildings are still livable, nevertheless, cleanest
is located on the heights in an old vault, too to
transport our effects there much far. Blow, by this
rainy weather, we currently requisition, smallest of
the parts of the building of the commune of Aasiaat
in work and install there our kitchen, which we
decorate with many candles, history to assemble the
temperature and to drive out a time is little, the
moisture of the places. Outside, low fog, rain and
head wind, we decide to defer navigation to the
following day.
Monday, June 28, 2010
Navigation between Kitsissuarsuit -
Marnemiut - 32 kms
68° 51' N - 053° 67' W/68° 35' N -
053° 07' W
A thick fog wraps the small island.
The wind weakened, us withes the material, convinced
that the day will be the good one. At 4 p.m., we
embark, and gain the small port, to go to greet
ultimate Ane once. Hardly we put the foot at ground,
which it moves towards us, announcing us to the
passage that his/her daughter received the
photographs sent the day before by Nathalie and that
pleased very to him. For the circumstance, it
immortalise the scene with its apparatus. The last
greets hand with the inhabitants of the village, we
put the course towards the South. The initially
chaotic sea, is calmed quickly. To the right in the
middle of the crossing, we yield the place to a tug
boat drawing an immense barge. Oil work seems to
have started.
Has 22 hours, after 6 hours of
navigation, and 32 kilometers carried out in the
greyness, we touch the bottom of a small bay, where
an old unused village is located.
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Kitsissuarsuit
68° 51' N - 053° 67' W
Whereas Michel, our router announces
to us a favourable weather for a navigation, the
wind of South-western sector contrary to our road
and the fog make us moderate his optimism.
Nevertheless, we decide to arrange our effects in
waiting of the final loading. Only, the tent remains
gone up. We go in Ane in order to say to him goodbye
and to validate the infos weather by an ultimate
consultation weather on Internet. This one tallies a
little more with the reality noted on the ground.
Ass showing us a large musky beef bag frozen, driven
out by his/her son, proposes to us to remain for the
lunch which will take place at 4 p.m. We go on the
heights of the island, for ultimate once, to check
the feasibility of about fifteen kilometers that it
is necessary for us to realize to join the coast.
Ass joined us, and a site shows us where multiple
ripraps were carried out. On a notebook, it
describes us a shipwreck, which would have taken
place two centuries earlier. With the low word,
about thirty people would have left the life there.
The fog rose, the wind does not drop. In way, it
shows us edible plants. We finish the evening at it
owe Internet and ultimate a kaffemik.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Kitsissuarsuit
68° 51' N - 053° 67' W
After a spade screws on the authors
of the island, where we carry out some images, we
meet near the cemetery, Ane which invites us to
follow it. It directs us towards the blue house
where with place a birthday where as the practice,
cakes, coffee and other mets people of the village
wait. After that, we go to it. We introduces his
Thomas son and offers coffee and cookie to us before
saying to us that it counts on us for the dinner, to
share a meal containing seal. The departure, being
envisaged for the following day, we ask him for an
address email to forward to him of the images. It
gives in gift a pair of wool pulley blocks to
Nathalie. As often in the small communities at
Greenland, one day made of attentions.
Friday, June 25, 2010
Kitsissuarsuit
68° 51' N - 053° 67' W
To lunch at the end of the morning
near our small camping, which with the variation of
the village has paces of wild spot. In we let us
direct towards the shop to carry out some purchases
in fresh produce, Marius launches us an invitation
for a kaffemik. In the tread, we meet Marie, old
village. She shows us the house of her brother and
invites us to pass there in end of the afternoon to
discuss. In the afternoon, we work on our images in
the common house. In the evening, Marie grants an
interview to us on the life of the village: “when I
was child, I spent all the summer at the bottom of a
fjord with all my family under a tipi in seal skin,
to make provisions for the winter. Today, this same
tipi is in a Museum in Denmark. The things go too
quickly says us it, and to earlier show us
photographs of two large oil tankers arrived a few
days at broad of Aasiaat before even obtaining the
authorizations. The Greenlanders do not have
knowledge and the knowledge to accompany these
evolutions. Who will benefit from all that? ”.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Navigation between Akunnaaq and
Kitissuarsuit - 38 kms
68° 44' N - 052° 19' W/68° 51' N -
053° 67' W
We leave small bay of Akunnaaq at the
end of the morning, just at the moment when the
weekly ferry restocks the village. Cape in Western
North, direction islands located at the North of the
town of Aasiaat. The conditions calmer than are
envisaged and we carry out the 38 kms in 8 hours of
navigation. The 15 last being made out of full
water.
An anecdote, with the right in the
middle of the crossing, a speed boat come from no
share, stop with ten meters in front of, with at its
edge two women and a man of approximately 65 years,
in overalls, which at the time of our passage, leave
its camera to photograph us, before setting out
again as quickly as it did not arrive.
The village is located in a small
archipelago. After one hour of prospection, we find
finally on his Western Northern part, a small split
with the sun and vis-a-vis the island of Disko.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Akunnaaq
68° 44' N - 052° 19' W
There was world the day before, when
we arrived on Akunnaaq. And before to have even left
our kayaks water, we helped a group of men to carry
a oumiac (traditional oar boat being able to
transport ten people).
Today, except for a fisherman
repairing his net on the port, the village seems
deserted. The dwellings stretch all in length on a
hill and for the majority are turned towards the
interior of bay and do not look at the sea. After
one day whole last with Akunnaaq, one can say that
it is certainly one of the most discrete villages
which we met since the beginning of our tour.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Navigation between Ikamiut and
Akunnaaq - 24 kms
68° 38' N - 051° 49' W/68° 44' N -
052° 19' W
7:30. The hammering of the drops
blown on the fabric of tent gives the tone of the
external conditions. On the PC, the received last
infos announce a lull for the beginning of
afternoon, with a good window until at the end of
the evening. We decide to arrange the material in
the kayaks and to leave the tent assembled to the
case or.
According to the invitation of Karl,
we pay a last visit in its residence. A kaffemik,
accompanied by sympathetic nerves small toasts is
been useful to us. We formulate of share and others
of the invitations for the future. Birthe would like
to visit us on Monaco. On their side, they would
like to see us spending the winter with them. We
will miss you say to us on several occasions they.
Karl offers the pendentive one to me that it carried
the day before during the ceremony of the National
Festival. In the tread, Birthe demolishes its pin in
reindeer and gives it to Nathalie. The emotion is
with its roof, they gave us already so much.
Karl, Birthe and Nadia, as of other
people of the village help us to carry the kayaks
and clasp us in their arms. Rare thing, of the
workmen of the fisheries stopped work to greet us.
The course is put on Akunnaaq. Under
an always covered sky, and with a good breeze of
face, we start this navigation, without saying a
word, that for better engraving in our reports the
moments spent with the small community of Ikamiut.
Monday, June 21, 2010
Ikamiut - National Feastday
68° 38' N - 051° 49' W
8:00: appointment in front of the
office of the commune. Karl, out of Greenlandic
traditional dress starts a speech. The small group
present sings the national anthem while on the mast,
the colors of Greenland are raised. Follows a
collective breakfast.
10:00: two flags precedent small
crowd moves towards the church. After the mass, a
competition of hunting for the seal is organized. On
the port, under the hurrahs of public, ten boats of
the hunters take a simultaneous departure. Five
seals will be brought back, and two of them will be
used for the feast of the day.
After the official discourse, we give
a medal of the Town of Monaco, for submission to the
commune of Ikamiut. This gift, very appreciated,
will pass with hands in hands.
The afternoon, a multitude of
collective plays is organized under the laughter and
the encouragements of the public.
While in bay, three whales approach
and come to greet us with a few meters of the shore.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Ikamiut
68° 38' N - 051° 49' W
At the end of the morning, we are
invited to follow Karl and its small family on her
boat, for a spade screws family. After three fifteen
minutes of navigation in the fjords, eight boats
meet. On the whole, forty brought together people,
children and adults, are about half of the village.
Coniferous trees are collected. With large rollers,
triple hearth is installed. Fire is lit, part of the
seal driven out the old woman is cooked various
ways, as well as a good vegetable soup. The meal can
start. The day continues with plays and songs.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Ikamiut
68° 38' N - 051° 49' W
The sky is gray, and a rain gives to
Ikamiut paces of Breton villages. 15:00, we are
invited to the birthday of Cécilia, where, in the
small house, half of the village is joined together.
There too, of the mets of all kinds and many cakes
are distributed on various tables. Birthe wishes to
benefit from it so that one presents our DVD
photographs and musics of the program 2009. On a
broad screen, this one has much success. At the
beginning of evening, under an always gray sky, Karl
proposes to us to go to drive out the seal with
his/her son, Malik, a 13 year old teenager who has
just bought with his economies his first Winchester,
gauge 22. On bay of Disko, we continue the small
groups of seals, but their shootings of do not touch
their target. Resigned, we regain the small port.
Without anything to say, Karl carries out an
ultimate attempt as a recluse and returns with an
enormous seal of a hundred kilos. We leave with all
the family to cut out the animal on the rocks not
far from the village.
Friday, June 18, 2010
Ikamiut
68° 38' N - 051° 49' W
Installed with the right in the
middle of the village, with a few meters of the
principal way, we have our breakfast without us to
trouble about the risks to come from the weather.
Today, it is slackening! We start a visit of the
village and benefit from the good sunning. The
afternoon is more functional. Installed in the
communal house, we sort photographs. In the evening,
Birthe and Karl invite us to pass the evening on
their premises, for a kafemik.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Navigation between Island of
Ivssorigsoq - Ikamiut - 22 kms
68° 34' N - 051° 23' W/68° 38' N -
051° 49' W
6:30, before even the coffee, we
consult as with the practice the bulletin weather.
Outside, the conditions are calm, but a strong gale
is planned for the semi-day. Since the night, the
baro is in freefall. A lull is envisaged in end of
the afternoon, we decide to arrange our business.
13:30, still not of wind. We hesitate to go there,
when the first gusts are felt. 50 to 80 km/h in
gusts, we made well temporize. We have patience in
combination seals, under the rain, a good part of
the afternoon. Finally, as envisaged, the pressure
is stabilized, the wind drops and disappears
completely. Cape on Ikamiut. Four hours later, when
we put the foot at ground, an invitation with dining
is made to us. The parents of Tony celebrates his 14
years.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Navigation between Akudglit - Island
of Ivssorigsoq - 21 kms
68° 39' N - 051° 14' W/68° 34' N -
051° 23' W
After the day of bad weather of the
day before, the sun is of return. At the semi-day,
we leave our hosts and the installations into hard
which accommodated us on Akugdlit. Cape in the south
east because with the dubious weather, we avoid for
the moment the great crossings. Then, in the western
south, to finish on the hospital small island of
Ivssorigsoq. Today, we passed the 100 kms since the
departure, that is to say 10% of our course
envisaged.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Akugdlit - City phantom
68° 39' N - 051° 14' W
With 8:30, go in the green small
house. Villads, which was 14 years old when the
village was moved awaits us there, accompanied by
Dye stick, professor Danish who acts as interpreter.
Outside a strong strong gale prevails, snow starts
to fall. Testimony is extremely instructive when
with the methods used at the time to move the
villages. We pass the remainder of the day in
company of the high-school pupils. Wedged by the
rain, snow and the strong wind, we remain with them,
well with the shelter, in a heated building, where
the activities go good progress. A series of
photographs of the meeting of make-up will certainly
remain in our files.
Monday, June 14, 2010
Navigation between Qasiguiannguit and
Akugdlit - 22 kms
68° 48' N - 051° 10' W/68° 39' N -
051° 14' W
Qasiguiannguit cash 1300 inhabitants
is for us, gravitational than the small communities.
We decide, taking into account the good weather of
the day to advance in order to be within one week in
a small village for the national festival. Contrary
to the 2 with 3m/s announced, we sail by the
North-West of 8 m/s who generates sympathetic nerves
surfings with the reverse current. The village of
Akugdlit is judicious being a phantom city, a
community, moved in the Sixties. It does not have
anything a phantom city, because in the course of
the day arrived an about sixty high-school pupils
come from the four corners from Greenland.
Throughout the year, this elite is based in
Qasiguiannguit. In fact, it passes here, the last
days of their annual session.
We do not have to empty the kayaks,
because we are quickly helped for the bearing. In
premium, one announces to us that the dinner is been
useful.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W/68° 48' N -
051° 10' W
Navigation between Ilimanaq and
Qasigiannguit - 36 kms
8:30, when we leave the village, a
breeze of north east already in place. We carry out
a passage in front of the village in order to see
the possible ones raises early. Only, Jacob in front
of his green house greets us hand. We hoist the
veils and let us greet on several occasions it. The
breeze is favorable for us and helps us until the
installation lunch, where we have already 20 kms
with the meter. When we take again the road, we see
a sailing ship travelling in north. It is well
Polaris of our German friends, Martina and Michael
which wintered in a fjord close to Aasiat. We had
agreed to meet them with the bivouac, but the bad
weather for the next days precipitated their
departure. On the open sea, between two large
icebergs, and after some acrobatics, we take the
coffee on the bridge postpones and exchange some
infos quickly. They leave towards Thulé for the
summer. www.polaris-sail.de. We leave them later one
hour, it remains to us still 16 kms to be traversed.
Last half an hour is surprising. The sky passes from
blue to a dark gray. In a few minutes, the Bay of
Disko is chapeauté by a cloud with the multiple
lengthened spirals which does not predict anything
good. We force the pace and arrive at times,
thorough by the strong gale.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Ilimanaq
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W
Today, we are of marriage, not in
Monaco, but in Ilimanaq, where our friends Karen and
Pele marry. The appointment was at 10 a.m. in front
of the church. The priest Anglican celebrates the
office in the small church where the inhabitants,
for the majority in traditional behavior took seat.
We carry out a series of photographs right after the
office. The kafemik has this day of the paces of
dresser. We are invited for the 18 hour old banquet.
Like makes purposely, after the
disturbances of these days, the weather is more
favorable and a strong gale is announced for the
following day in middle of day. In preparation for a
departure in the evening, just after the beginning
of the banquet, we arrange the kayaks and withes the
totality of our effects. Finally, the authenticity
and the user-friendliness of a banquet of
Greenlandic marriage, with its plays, its songs and
its bursts of laughter, holds us all the evening. We
leave them the large heart, a tear with the eye.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Ilimanaq
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W
Our Greenlandic friends, Nukannguak
(what wants to say: dear little sister) and Jacob
her husband, invite us to follow the France match -
Uruguay in their house, in company of their Diana
binoculars and Ane-Marie four year old and Tony, one
year.
An improvised dinner, follow-up of a
left pancake. A very cordial family.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Ilimanaq
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W
Morning under the tent, a Breton
drizzle does not cease falling since the day before.
The afternoon, we work on our photographs well with
the shelter, in the communal house. We decided to
remain until Saturday for the marriage of Karen and
Pele, to which we are invited.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Ilimanaq
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W
With 17:00, local time, we carry out
direct by telephone with the public of the Night of
the Photograph, organized by Photo Chin, that, after
the projection of our diaporama, of the program
2009. Ca makes always hot in the middle hearing
applause thousands of away kilometers.
The evening continues with an
invitation at the family of Arne and Martina. In
addition to the exquisite fish soup and the stew of
seal, the evening is transformed quickly into
musical evening, because here, father, sons and girl
are all singers and play of the guitar. Between two
images, we benefit from it for carries out some
recordings on the sharp one and of new testimonys.
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Ilimanaq
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W
Contrary to our infos weather, it
rained all during the night and all the day. The
afternoon, in the communal house, we put order in
our photographs. There, an invitation for a
“kafemik” (and coffee at the inhabitant) is proposed
to us. When we go there, it is in fact a dinner of
birthday which awaits us. Thricia, surrounded by its
family and her friends celebrates its 50 years. A
table for the fish dishes, for the meat dishes and
for the coffee and the desserts. Once more, we share
with happiness the spontaneousness and the
user-friendliness of our Greenlandic friends.
Monday, June 7, 2010
Ilimanaq
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W
Under a veiled sun, we benefit from
the wood stock of the fisheries to make to a
pierrade whale.
In the evening, go at Karen and Pele
which marry next Saturday and which invite us for
the occasion.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Ilimanaq
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W
Invitation and lunch with the
Franco-Belgian crew on board Baloum Gwen, an
integral center-board of fifteen meters, with hull
steel, which does lot of mileage in north, Uummannaq
destination, and then towards the south of
Greenland, the east coast, Iceland and return
towards France. Thierry, a captain who deserves to
be known. www.baloumgwen.com
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Ilimanaq
69° 04' N - 051° 06' W
After the stress of these last days,
we lézardons with the sun in company of the
mosquitos. We reload the batteries, that in all the
directions of the term.
Friday, June 4, 2010
Navigation between Ilulissat and
Ilimanaq. 23 kms.
69° 13' N - 051° 06' W/69° 04' N -
051° 06' W
For our first blows of paddles of the
program 2010, two traditional kayaks accompany us.
Our friends, Margrethe and Paul, on their motorized
boat make some in the same way. She says to us that
his/her parents asked him to say to us “that they
love us”.
Once, only, with six kilometers with
broad, Isfjord yields the priority, course in the
south to us, the voyage starts. The exit of Isfjord
leads us to the village of Ilimanaq, the first
bivouac is assembled at three o'clock in the
morning, under the midnight sun.
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Ilulissat
69° 13' N - 051° 06' W
Ultimate preparations, we gathered
the whole of our material.
Testimony of John, of the club of
kayak which still drives out the seal with the
harpoon with its traditional kayak.
Last evening with our Greenlandic
friends, in front of the images of our DVD of the
program 2009.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Ilulissat
69° 13' N - 051° 06' W
Ca is there, the kayaks left their
container for the terrace of our friend Paul and the
hundred kilos of our pallet dispatched in April,
occupies a room close to ours.
Tuesday the 1st er June 2010
Ilulissat
69° 13' N - 051° 06' W
Not easy to organize the regrouping
of our material stored at various places of the
city, that over only one day. The reflection is well
started.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Ilulissat
69° 13' N - 051° 06' W
First meeting with impassioned
Greenlandic traditional kayaks, in Ilulissat Qajaq
Club.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Ilulissat
69° 13' N - 051° 06' W
One day dead city like often the week
end in Greenland. In the streets, nothing moves, if
it is not the fog.
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Ilulissat
69° 13' N - 051° 06' W
Day of the meeting again; first of
all with Lars and Louise with whom we had shared
good moments last year, and then with our kayaks.
The interior of the container is such as we left it
nine months earlier.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Copenhagen - Kangerlussuaq -
Ilulissat
The mosquitos already took their
district of summer on the international airport of
Kangerlussuaq. Contrary to the year spent, there is
no more no trace of snow on the reliefs. |
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