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August 17th, we leave Appat,
taking into account an important advance, (Ilulissat
is only at three days of navigation) we turn over
towards north, direction the village of Qeqertaq
which we râlions in the evening. That, after having
crossed without encumbers the icefiord of
Torssukatak, we will see it thereafter it is not
always the case. The village as for him, is masked
per quantity of icebergs accumulated under the
effect of the wind and the current. In this
labyrinth, the best way of finding itself there is
to follow the advance of the boats. Hardly T there
are posed the foot with ground, that one living,
invites us to remain at it. Immediately imitated by
its neighbor who indicates this time to us his
residence. Finally, it is at Louisa, that we pose
our business, having beforehand thanked Jacob, his
neighbor. Louisa does not speak English, the
communication is done despite everything. As
in all Greenlandic residences, the walls are papered
family photos. His/her children and small children
live today in various cities of the country.
Comfortably installed in one of the rooms of the
stage, we find a true bed and heating. After one
night, disturbed by this unusual comfort, it is a
true breakfast, which awaits us. On a calendar, we
take care to indicate to Louisa, that taking into
account a disturbance weather, we envisage a
departure later two days. It makes us understand
that there is no problem and that we can remain as a
long time as necessary. The living room is quickly
transformed into office, from which, between coffee
and cookies, we carry out our data-processing work.
Each day, mainly in the dinner, Louisa makes us a
Greenlandic traditional meal containing seal or of
whale. Between two, it invites us to a dresser
organized in the honor of a couple celebrating its
55 years of marriage. All the day, from many
inhabitants of the village come, like us, to greet
them and unite with the dresser. The evenings, using
vidéos report the various events which throughout
the year rythment life of the village. One evening,
we push the door, of its neighbors Eva and Jacob,
for a kafemik (invitation with a coffee break). They
earlier say to us to have crossed on the very
agitated passage of the course Nuussuaq a few weeks,
that east can be the reason of their prompt
invitation. The evening continues in front of the
video which here, reports their exploits at the time
of the competitions of huskies. It ends in one great
moment, where in two times, we have the honor to
find us both covered Greenlandic traditional dress,
only worn at the time of the special occasionss. The
following day, Jacob having cut up a seal, I will
nourish his dogs left with him in boat in freedoms
on an small island at the fine bottom of the fjord
to a dozen kilometers from there. At the time of an
exit in the village, by an overcast sky and windy,
we have the surprise to see a whole equipment of
kayak. Indeed, a little further, Marcus and Tom, two
sympathetic nerves German kayakers, earlier finish
their tour started three weeks since the South. We
of course exchange information, they indicate to us
the presence of many ices in the sector of the
islands leading to the glacier Epiq Sermia, starting
point of polar forwardings of Paul Emile Victor.
Information interests us, because it is precisely
there that we hope to go. The 21, at the semi-day,
after four days spent with Qeqertaq, the kayaks is
charged. And it is with much emotion that we pass
under the windows of Louisa. On both sides the arms
are agitated, the glance has evil to go forwards,
but it is well there that it is necessary for us to
go…
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