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A strong wind of the
North-West blew all the morning. The fiord of
Qeqertaq is unrecognizable when we leave it. Arrived
at the course Nugâq, junction with the icefiord
Torssukatak, the situation is impressive. The
icefjord, relatively free with the outward journey
is now charged with drifting ices. Benefitting from
each opening, we engage on the six kilometers of
crossing which separate us from the least exposed
sector, located on opposite bank. A such travelator,
a tight pack goes down on us, thorough by the wind
and the current. In this labyrinth, the doors open
and are closed with regular intervals. The
instruction is to borrow the same passage, in order
not to find itself insulated. Avoiding the blocks,
we progress only at very low speed. At the end of
two hours of a navigation of more “hot”, we did not
reach the medium of the channel yet. Decision is
made to follow the current, to make half-turn, and
of going to put to us at the shelter in bay of
Qeqertaq, opposite the village. After one night cold
and wet, it is with the same determination that on
August 22nd in the morning we renew the attempt. It
is necessary mess for us one hour before attack the
course Nugâq and to know the situation of the day on
Torssukatak. In the low part of the icefjord, with
the place even where the day before we turned back,
water seems free. The ices are less compact.
Nevertheless, upstream, is profiled a uniform white
band. We choose a navigation in the middle of the
channel, in order to be able to deviate freely on a
side or other according to the events. Under a gray
sky, travelling with counter-current, frozen by a
breeze of face going down from the glacier, we
advance without word, conscious of the difficulty
which approaches. Two hours later, our progression
is stopped by a wall with the notched peaks which,
slowly, advances on us. We seek a passage, but in
vain. Forts of the experiment of the day before, we
are not long in making a decision. We made only
eight kilometers on the score necessary to leave
this highway of ices. Impossible to continue under
these conditions, more especially as the wind can
forcir constantly. Unwillingly, it is necessary for
us to go obviously. We will not pass today. We
choose a skirting by the south, by the narrow
passage of Smallesund which joined the principal
channel of Bay of Disko. With the help of two days
of navigation additional, we can still hope to join
the glacier by the southern road by going up Atasund.
Whereas crossing the icefjord, we approach his
Bank-South, an opening upstream appears. As we
advance, the thing is confirmed. Change of program,
and new attempt. Stuck this time to the abrupt slope
of the relief, we progress slowly, but regularly
towards our objective. Only, wind and current seem
to want to delay our progression. The hope reappears
again. In the afternoon, a gray and low sky leaves
room to scattered heavy showers. That is not to
displease to us, because under these conditions, not
of thermal risk of wind. At 5 p.m., thirty
kilometers are traversed. We choose the Tasilik
island to assemble the camp In addition to, its
central site in the zone of the glaciers, it offers
the undeniable advantage, to be narrow and to have
two opposite beaches. The Southern beach will be our
fire exit. The following day, with the alarm clock,
the situation is époustouflante. The Northern beach
is impracticable, just like the last ten kilometers
of the Koörnoq fjord by which we arrived. All is
only blocks of ices, packs floating, and this, as
far as the eye can see. Over such a day, we should
actually have given up.
Towards the South,
navigation remains however possible. In front of the
magic of the places, and taking into account our
always comfortable advance, we choose one day of
station-wagon and observation, benefitting from the
situation to carry out images of environment.
The 24 in the morning, of a high point of the
island, we observe with the binoculars the
situation. The way is free. A light breeze, and a
still weak current encourage us to quickly fold the
camp As of the first blows of paddle, from the
blocks up to that point motionless release
themselves, and come to close our exit point.
Seeking a solution, we put foot at ground. Under the
effect of the current, the ices take down the ones
after the others and in a few minutes a new opening
takes shape. Passed this belt, there is no more
obstacle. Only, the breeze persists. Suddenly, the
first gusts appear. We should redouble vigilance not
to be unbalanced. Going along the relief, we seek a
place to shelter us. As, a granite flagstone is
presented on our side. The place, ideal for a pause
lunch, is also for the nap. The wind remains
established, and the gusts are always also powerful.
This situation is prolonged. In end-of-day, it is
necessary for us to be resigned to spend the night
on a small terrace in height, suspended on the top
of water. The following day, all is calm, and it is
on a mirror that we advance serene towards the
bottom of the fiord where is located the glacier.
And testing our moral and our determination, again
the ice seems. It is different here, quantity of
small blocks follow one another as far as the eye
can see. Feeling the lost part, and taking into
account the complete absence of wind, we engage the
point of our kayaks, and test an ultimate attempt.
Gradually, pushing back block after block, sometimes
with the hands, we advance religieusement in a solid
semi space, semi-liquid. Several minutes occur.
Suddenly, the liquid seems to take again the top.
The blocks are spaced, the ultimate door is crossed,
the glacier appears free at the bottom of bay. At
regular intervals, grondements resound. In front of
us, on quite localized zones, whole sides of ices
crumble in the crash of a bluish smoke. With our
distance, the vision however impressive, starts only
one light swell. Not question of hesitating, it is
necessary for us to benefit from the good conditions
of the day, and while keeping a safety margin, as
well as possible to bring us closer to the glacier.
In an impressive decoration, infinitely smalls with
the foot of the wall, we carry out some images.
Vis-a-vis the glacier, firmly stayed, fifty years
afterwards, the small red hut of the base camp of
polar forwardings of Paul Emile Victor is always in
place. Today, like counterparts of the latter, small
bungalows and a tourist restaurant overhang it. Very
exposed, the zone is hardly favourable with an
accosting. Whereas we turn back towards the west,
two photographers, the pressed step, aim us on
several occasions. Certainly professionals. That
will be confirmed the following day. As for better
marking our reports, the meter of the selected GPS
this place to post 1.000 kilometers since our
departure of Upernavik. We move on the mouth of the
imposing river vis-a-vis the glacier. There, Yann
has last June, materialized its bivouac by the
installation of a granite stele. The spot is
sublime, from here Eqip sermia is even more
impressive. The sector which can be very been windy,
we take great care to position the tent in the most
sheltered zone, under a slope, and protected well by
the relief. The following day, small a forty minutes
excursion carries out us to the refuge. The place is
moving, a bit blunted by the tourist aspect which is
dedicated to him today. Taking the thing of the good
side, we make honor with the dresser. It should be
said that, the opportunity has not arisen for three
months. In this place, we meet Kai and Ole, two
animalist photographers. The same one which takes
care it on us was défoulé. We pass a good part of
the day together, and between two stereotypes, while
the wind rises, and that the corbels fly in step
back (it is not a joke), we exchange multiple
information. In this at the end of August and under
this latitude, the night remakes its appearance.
Well with the shelter under the tent, where 2°C
heats us, while outside the surface of the fjord
solidifies. With the first sun rays, a fine
translucent plate of a few millimetres recovers
water surface. That, added to the already
encountered difficulties, gives the impression to us
which the winter is catching up with us. The
swallowed coffee, it is with regret, but a tantinet
relieved, that giving our first blows of paddle, we
leave this magic place and so much coveted. |