Index Home Expeditions Galleries Testimonials Blog / Contact

                                                                                                                             

Against ice and tides 

De Qeqetarq NR 69 59 W 051 17 with the glacier Eqip Sermia NR 69 45 W 050 18

 From August 21st to 27th 2009.

A strong wind of the North-West blew all the morning. The fiord of Qeqertaq is unrecognizable when we leave it. Arrived at the course Nugâq, junction with the icefiord Torssukatak, the situation is impressive. The icefjord, relatively free with the outward journey is now charged with drifting ices. Benefitting from each opening, we engage on the six kilometers of crossing which separate us from the least exposed sector, located on opposite bank. A such travelator, a tight pack goes down on us, thorough by the wind and the current. In this labyrinth, the doors open and are closed with regular intervals. The instruction is to borrow the same passage, in order not to find itself insulated. Avoiding the blocks, we progress only at very low speed. At the end of two hours of a navigation of more “hot”, we did not reach the medium of the channel yet. Decision is made to follow the current, to make half-turn, and of going to put to us at the shelter in bay of Qeqertaq, opposite the village. After one night cold and wet, it is with the same determination that on August 22nd in the morning we renew the attempt. It is necessary mess for us one hour before attack the course Nugâq and to know the situation of the day on Torssukatak. In the low part of the icefjord, with the place even where the day before we turned back, water seems free. The ices are less compact. Nevertheless, upstream, is profiled a uniform white band. We choose a navigation in the middle of the channel, in order to be able to deviate freely on a side or other according to the events. Under a gray sky, travelling with counter-current, frozen by a breeze of face going down from the glacier, we advance without word, conscious of the difficulty which approaches. Two hours later, our progression is stopped by a wall with the notched peaks which, slowly, advances on us. We seek a passage, but in vain. Forts of the experiment of the day before, we are not long in making a decision. We made only eight kilometers on the score necessary to leave this highway of ices. Impossible to continue under these conditions, more especially as the wind can forcir constantly. Unwillingly, it is necessary for us to go obviously. We will not pass today. We choose a skirting by the south, by the narrow passage of Smallesund which joined the principal channel of Bay of Disko. With the help of two days of navigation additional, we can still hope to join the glacier by the southern road by going up Atasund. Whereas crossing the icefjord, we approach his Bank-South, an opening upstream appears. As we advance, the thing is confirmed. Change of program, and new attempt. Stuck this time to the abrupt slope of the relief, we progress slowly, but regularly towards our objective. Only, wind and current seem to want to delay our progression. The hope reappears again.  In the afternoon, a gray and low sky leaves room to scattered heavy showers. That is not to displease to us, because under these conditions, not of thermal risk of wind. At 5 p.m., thirty kilometers are traversed. We choose the Tasilik island to assemble the camp In addition to, its central site in the zone of the glaciers, it offers the undeniable advantage, to be narrow and to have two opposite beaches. The Southern beach will be our fire exit. The following day, with the alarm clock, the situation is époustouflante. The Northern beach is impracticable, just like the last ten kilometers of the Koörnoq fjord by which we arrived. All is only blocks of ices, packs floating, and this, as far as the eye can see. Over such a day, we should actually have given up.

Towards the South, navigation remains however possible. In front of the magic of the places, and taking into account our always comfortable advance, we choose one day of station-wagon and observation, benefitting from the situation to carry out images of environment.

The 24 in the morning, of a high point of the island, we observe with the binoculars the situation. The way is free. A light breeze, and a still weak current encourage us to quickly fold the camp As of the first blows of paddle, from the blocks up to that point motionless release themselves, and come to close our exit point. Seeking a solution, we put foot at ground. Under the effect of the current, the ices take down the ones after the others and in a few minutes a new opening takes shape. Passed this belt, there is no more obstacle. Only, the breeze persists. Suddenly, the first gusts appear. We should redouble vigilance not to be unbalanced. Going along the relief, we seek a place to shelter us. As, a granite flagstone is presented on our side. The place, ideal for a pause lunch, is also for the nap. The wind remains established, and the gusts are always also powerful. This situation is prolonged. In end-of-day, it is necessary for us to be resigned to spend the night on a small terrace in height, suspended on the top of water. The following day, all is calm, and it is on a mirror that we advance serene towards the bottom of the fiord where is located the glacier. And testing our moral and our determination, again the ice seems. It is different here, quantity of small blocks follow one another as far as the eye can see. Feeling the lost part, and taking into account the complete absence of wind, we engage the point of our kayaks, and test an ultimate attempt. Gradually, pushing back block after block, sometimes with the hands, we advance religieusement in a solid semi space, semi-liquid. Several minutes occur. Suddenly, the liquid seems to take again the top. The blocks are spaced, the ultimate door is crossed, the glacier appears free at the bottom of bay. At regular intervals, grondements resound. In front of us, on quite localized zones, whole sides of ices crumble in the crash of a bluish smoke. With our distance, the vision however impressive, starts only one light swell. Not question of hesitating, it is necessary for us to benefit from the good conditions of the day, and while keeping a safety margin, as well as possible to bring us closer to the glacier. In an impressive decoration, infinitely smalls with the foot of the wall, we carry out some images. Vis-a-vis the glacier, firmly stayed, fifty years afterwards, the small red hut of the base camp of polar forwardings of Paul Emile Victor is always in place. Today, like counterparts of the latter, small bungalows and a tourist restaurant overhang it. Very exposed, the zone is hardly favourable with an accosting. Whereas we turn back towards the west, two photographers, the pressed step, aim us on several occasions. Certainly professionals. That will be confirmed the following day. As for better marking our reports, the meter of the selected GPS this place to post 1.000 kilometers since our departure of Upernavik. We move on the mouth of the imposing river vis-a-vis the glacier. There, Yann has last June, materialized its bivouac by the installation of a granite stele. The spot is sublime, from here Eqip sermia is even more impressive. The sector which can be very been windy, we take great care to position the tent in the most sheltered zone, under a slope, and protected well by the relief. The following day, small a forty minutes excursion carries out us to the refuge. The place is moving, a bit blunted by the tourist aspect which is dedicated to him today. Taking the thing of the good side, we make honor with the dresser. It should be said that, the opportunity has not arisen for three months. In this place, we meet Kai and Ole, two animalist photographers. The same one which takes care it on us was défoulé. We pass a good part of the day together, and between two stereotypes, while the wind rises, and that the corbels fly in step back (it is not a joke), we exchange multiple information. In this at the end of August and under this latitude, the night remakes its appearance. Well with the shelter under the tent, where 2°C heats us, while outside the surface of the fjord solidifies. With the first sun rays, a fine translucent plate of a few millimetres recovers water surface. That, added to the already encountered difficulties, gives the impression to us which the winter is catching up with us. The swallowed coffee, it is with regret, but a tantinet relieved, that giving our first blows of paddle, we leave this magic place and so much coveted.

 

 

Back