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 Of a family of reception in Kangersuatsiaq

with the children of Sondre Upernavik,

from June 15th to 26th 2009 N72 09

 

 

Our arrival in the small village of Kangersuatsiaq was done under conditions very particular, namely a navigation quasi not stop of almost 7 a.m. thirty in a fog to be crossed to the knife. On this course we were constrained to sail with the instruments. The small station quickly became for us a salutary halt. Our camp assembled on an inclined ground in the middle of the garaged boats, vis-a-vis the small port was within sight of all.

We were the witnesses of their daily lifestyle, a way of life calm and peaceful, where the day starts with 9:00 and finishes with 15:00 with a pause of 1 a.m. From 19:00 /20h, the evening becomes animated to only finish very early the morning in the neighborhoods of 2:00 /3h. We could carry out 2 testimonys including one with a former fisherman and 80 years hunter. The barrier of the language is a true handicap and it is necessary for us regularly to seek translators what is not easy thing because very little of anybody speaks English.

Over this period, the weather always was very been overcast with step badly of low clouds. With the first break, we carried out an attempt at departure in direction of Sondre Upernavik where we intended to pass the famous national festival of June 21st. Hardly planes us begun our course, is at the end of a half hour, that an important cloudy mass again came to be stuck to the reliefs and us it was necessary to curtail the exit and to turn back. It had been imprudent and uninteresting to carry out this course with many crossings under conditions of null visibility.

The second part of our stay with Kangersuatsiaq transformed herself into stay at the inhabitant. Initially, Judithe, came to solicit us to take the coffee in its residence. Coffee, we passed to the lunch, who have by far, in this cold and wet environment improved our daily comfort. Very covered time always did not encourage us any more to move. Rain and snow finished dissuading us to return to us on Sondre Uperanvik for the national festival, whereas we were integrated perfectly here.

For this occasion, the small village was put on its 31, the alleys cleaned with the motor-driven pump by the teams of firemen, and the entirely raked village of its waste by all the generations, in all the recesses of the village. The come day, the activities were knowingly prepared.

8 hours, survey of the flag and sung national anthem with capella. Follow-up of a breakfast of circumstance among our hosts. That opposite the TV which diffused images of the national festival on line since the Nuuk capital.

9:45, official ceremony in the small vault of the commune. Many people are out of traditional dress.

13 hours, everyone with go in the village hall. The villagers congratulent themselves before going to sit down around an immense central dresser. The official discourses are carried out by the persons in charge of the commune, to which belonged our Godman host. At the end of its intervention, it presents to us with the whole of the inhabitants. We benefit from this occasion and the solemnity of the moment to give to the commune a medal out of crystal, present of the Municipality of Monaco. This gesture the key enormously. The whole of the population expresses its approval by constant applause. A villager offers to us spontaneously, within sight of all, his pendentive personnel with the effigy of Greenland. Once speeches, and the many songs of the choral society finished, the dresser is open. Various dishes containing narval, whale, and another seal, are proposed. It is then a merry rush towards the dresser which contrasts with the discipline hitherto respected.

The evening finishes among our hosts in front of the TV, retransmettant images of the capital where the official banquet with the queen is held of Denmark and all the policies. This day being the ultimate stage before the final independence of Greenland. Judith prepared us seal, it was really excellent. We decline politely the invitation with the dance which is held in the village hall, in preparation for our departure planned for the following day.

In the night, an inhabitant comes to type with our tent and gives us two pendentive buildings. Our gesture seems to have touched them much.

On Monday, June 22, day of our departure, the sun has been shining for the first time for a good week. Our hosts insist that we divide an ultimate lunch before our departure. In spite of the boats already charged, it is impossible for us to refuse. The moment of the good-byes is filled up emotions.

The 33 km which separate us from the village of Sondre Upernavik carry out under most favorable conditions weather. When we arrive in small bay, the whole of the inhabitants seems to be joined together on a close beach. The children accommodate us, and help us to leave our kayaks. One counts a score of enter them tie and pushing our boats to ground, until the place of our camping.

We are invited to join the population, which for lack of bad weather over the day of the day before, carries out an immense barbecue where each one prepared various dishes of which whale. Each one solicits us and proposes to us different put. We benefit from it to present, and carry out many images to us. This time, our camp is assembled in a zone whatever little isolated but oh how much quieter than our preceding camping. Each evening, at the time to dine it, we receive visit. The children of the village unite with us, observe us for finally inviting us to take part in their plays, balls, the hopscotch, hides mask, and farandole.

At the time of one evening, whereas we discuss around a coffee at one the professors the school, we are invited to take part in a small impromptu evening. It east 22 hours, and almost all the village is there. This festival in the honor of a 4 year old little girl who fished its first fish. 

To thank the guests, of the small present (dry cookies, grapes, toilet paper, sponge, etc.), as a gift, is thrown to the assistance. Here, all is pretext for the gathering of the people.

It was really touching. We carry out last purchases before a stage in total autonomy of more than 200km. The zone of navigation is relatively exposed, we envisage a fifteen or so days to cross it, including concerning the bad weather. The buildings warn us that we are likely to meet musk ox herds, and that it is necessary for us to be armed.

 

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