.JPG)
.JPG)








 |
Our arrival in
the small village of Kangersuatsiaq was done under
conditions very particular, namely a navigation
quasi not stop of almost 7 a.m. thirty in a fog to
be crossed to the knife. On this course we were
constrained to sail with the instruments. The small
station quickly became for us a salutary halt. Our
camp assembled on an inclined ground in the middle
of the garaged boats, vis-a-vis the small port was
within sight of all.
We were the witnesses
of their daily lifestyle, a way of life calm and
peaceful, where the day starts with 9:00 and
finishes with 15:00 with a pause of 1 a.m. From
19:00 /20h, the evening becomes animated to only
finish very early the morning in the neighborhoods
of 2:00 /3h. We could carry out 2 testimonys
including one with a former fisherman and 80 years
hunter. The barrier of the language is a true
handicap and it is necessary for us regularly to
seek translators what is not easy thing because very
little of anybody speaks English.
Over this period,
the weather always was very been overcast with step
badly of low clouds. With the first break, we
carried out an attempt at departure in direction of
Sondre Upernavik where we intended to pass the
famous national festival of June 21st. Hardly planes
us begun our course, is at the end of a half hour,
that an important cloudy mass again came to be stuck
to the reliefs and us it was necessary to curtail
the exit and to turn back. It had been imprudent and
uninteresting to carry out this course with many
crossings under conditions of null visibility.
The second part of
our stay with Kangersuatsiaq transformed herself
into stay at the inhabitant. Initially, Judithe,
came to solicit us to take the coffee in its
residence. Coffee, we passed to the lunch, who have
by far, in this cold and wet environment improved
our daily comfort. Very covered time always did not
encourage us any more to move. Rain and snow
finished dissuading us to return to us on Sondre
Uperanvik for the national festival, whereas we were
integrated perfectly here.
For this occasion,
the small village was put on its 31, the alleys
cleaned with the motor-driven pump by the teams of
firemen, and the entirely raked village of its waste
by all the generations, in all the recesses of the
village. The come day, the activities were knowingly
prepared.
8 hours, survey of
the flag and sung national anthem with capella.
Follow-up of a breakfast of circumstance among our
hosts. That opposite the TV which diffused images of
the national festival on line since the Nuuk
capital.
9:45, official
ceremony in the small vault of the commune. Many
people are out of traditional dress.
13 hours, everyone
with go in the village hall. The villagers
congratulent themselves before going to sit down
around an immense central dresser. The official
discourses are carried out by the persons in charge
of the commune, to which belonged our Godman host.
At the end of its intervention, it presents to us
with the whole of the inhabitants. We benefit from
this occasion and the solemnity of the moment to
give to the commune a medal out of crystal, present
of the Municipality of Monaco. This gesture the key
enormously. The whole of the population expresses
its approval by constant applause. A villager offers
to us spontaneously, within sight of all, his
pendentive personnel with the effigy of Greenland.
Once speeches, and the many songs of the choral
society finished, the dresser is open. Various
dishes containing narval, whale, and another seal,
are proposed. It is then a merry rush towards the
dresser which contrasts with the discipline hitherto
respected.
The evening
finishes among our hosts in front of the TV,
retransmettant images of the capital where the
official banquet with the queen is held of Denmark
and all the policies. This day being the ultimate
stage before the final independence of Greenland.
Judith prepared us seal, it was really excellent. We
decline politely the invitation with the dance which
is held in the village hall, in preparation for our
departure planned for the following day.
In the night, an
inhabitant comes to type with our tent and gives us
two pendentive buildings. Our gesture seems to have
touched them much.
On Monday, June
22, day of our departure, the sun has been shining
for the first time for a good week. Our hosts insist
that we divide an ultimate lunch before our
departure. In spite of the boats already charged, it
is impossible for us to refuse. The moment of the
good-byes is filled up emotions.
The 33 km which
separate us from the village of Sondre Upernavik
carry out under most favorable conditions weather.
When we arrive in small bay, the whole of the
inhabitants seems to be joined together on a close
beach. The children accommodate us, and help us to
leave our kayaks. One counts a score of enter them
tie and pushing our boats to ground, until the place
of our camping.
We are invited to
join the population, which for lack of bad weather
over the day of the day before, carries out an
immense barbecue where each one prepared various
dishes of which whale. Each one solicits us and
proposes to us different put. We benefit from it to
present, and carry out many images to us. This time,
our camp is assembled in a zone whatever little
isolated but oh how much quieter than our preceding
camping. Each evening, at the time to dine it, we
receive visit. The children of the village unite
with us, observe us for finally inviting us to take
part in their plays, balls, the hopscotch, hides
mask, and farandole.
At the time of one
evening, whereas we discuss around a coffee at one
the professors the school, we are invited to take
part in a small impromptu evening. It east 22 hours,
and almost all the village is there. This festival
in the honor of a 4 year old little girl who fished
its first fish.
To thank the
guests, of the small present (dry cookies, grapes,
toilet paper, sponge, etc.), as a gift, is thrown to
the assistance. Here, all is pretext for the
gathering of the people.
It was really
touching. We carry out last purchases before a stage
in total autonomy of more than 200km. The zone of
navigation is relatively exposed, we envisage a
fifteen or so days to cross it, including concerning
the bad weather. The buildings warn us that we are
likely to meet musk ox herds, and that it is
necessary for us to be armed. |