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Wild
coast
Summary of the course carried
out in total autonomy between SONDRE UPPERNAVIK and
ILLORSUIT from June 27th to July 7th, 2009.
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On Saturday, June 27,
we leave SONDRE UPPERNAVIK in end according to
midday on the blow of the 16:30 with 2 to 3 days of
delay on the program initially envisaged. Last
purchases having been made the morning even, mainly
of alcohol with stove in order to be able to hold a
score of days if the need being felt some. Contrary
to the forecasts weather of the day, the conditions
to leave the fiord are optimum, time calms and no
apparent breeze. A last safety while passing in
front of the village, on the bank the hands are
agitated, the formulas of encouragement in
Greenlandic are sent to us. Very quickly the tone is
given, the absence of reference mark makes the
crossings interminable. It takes us sometimes
several hours to rejoin 2 coasts. In spite of a
course with beforehand studied on the chart with the
councils of the buildings, we cross very quickly to
shortest. Our first night spent on the island of
KEKERTAQ, saves to us not badly time. Surprising
thing, in this sector the possibilities of stop and
bivouac are much more important than in the fiords
of north. It is not to displease to us, because that
made party of our concerns. A strong strong gale
being announced for the day of the 30, we lengthen
the stages, to pass course SIGGUK. That leads us the
28 to carry out a stage of 43 km, 12:00 of
navigation, the 3 last are interminable for us,
outgoing fort running on this coastal projection
prolonged the stage of at least 2 hours. Attracted
by smoke, we unload at the bottom of the fiord, near
a camp of fishing. Three tents are already
assembled, the buildings accommodate us, they are
there for 3 days. As we expected it, they announce
us the presence of musk oxen near the camp, on the
heights. They observe them with the binocular. Three
rifles left. Exhausted of tiredness, it is at 5
o'clock in the morning that we will lie down, and
give our safety between their hands. The following
day, in spite of the music and the outward journey
and come around the tent, we emerge at the beginning
of after midday. But which is not our surprise,
while noting, that there is nobody any more around
us. At sea, 2 motorboats are on the departure. They
greet us by far. Certainly prevented bad weather,
they are left the places precipitately. Spent the
moment of disappointment, we organize our safety
quickly. Binoculars, rifle, cartridges, foghorn, and
other rockets of distress are quickly gathered.
Environment is tended, we cannot leave the places,
the strong gale being always announced.
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Follows itself from
there two days interminable of wind and rain. We
start to ration us, in preparation for a prolonged
stay. Contrast between the interior of our small
shelter and the hostility of this immense plain is
seizing. After more 48h of gust of wind, it is
difficult to support the noise inside the tent.
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At the third day the
reliefs are now covered with snow, a lull seems to
take shape, we decide to go there. With the program,
40 km of exposed coast and often agitated sea,
generated by the presence of high funds. Only
positive point, the presence of beach on the first
part of the course. After 8 hours of active
navigation, back wind, and many surfings, we arrive
at the Southern end of the peninsula and
destination. We are now with the shelter of the
dominant winds of the North-West.
However, a new strong
gale with prohibition to sail is announced to us for
the 4 and the 5. It us remainder 24 hours to put to
us at the shelter. We travel full Is, and go along
the southern part of the NUNAVIK. This route makes
us join again with the ice that we had left a few
times. The presence of many glaciers in the district
of UUMMANNAQ which we have just entered, generate
quantity of icebergs of surprising size. Whereas
within a radiant framework and protected well, we
await the strong gale, that it is not our surprise,
while opening tardily our limps email, to learn,
that this one is cancelled. One of the most
beautiful days of navigation is followed from there,
a light bearing wind, enabling us to put the veils,
and to progress quickly, in the middle of the
icebergs, and under a radiant sun. In medium of
course, an opportunity is offered to us. To continue
in the axis of the wind, to shunt the coastal
bivouac of the evening initially envisaged. That in
order to go to position with the right in the middle
of the immense fjord of KARRATS. There, an island
with a hut of trap door is located, this initiative
saves to us good a half day, but especially,
positions us in a fairy-like place with a sight with
360°. After three good hours of navigation and 16 km
in full water, it is with a good wind of through,
and a sea which starts to grow hollow that we see
the hut, and touch the island in a small well
protected bay. This navigation, makes us assess the
remarkable qualities of navigation of our boats. It
is true that the reputation Explorer is not any more
to make. The hut is opened, it made hot there, in
spite of an aspect stripped and rustic, the interior
appears luxurious to us. It should be said that it
is the first shelter into hard which we have touched
for one month. The framework is so paradisiac, that
we decide from the start to remain a whole day
there, whatever the conditions to come.
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Only on our small
island, with several kilometers of the coasts, we
start under a radiant sun one day of large
detergent. We benefit the passage from the small
interior lake to take a bath, in the middle of the
cries of the terns and the regular detonations of
the drifting icebergs which break around us. For a
few days the solar panel which supplies the battery
has given signs of weakness. This one does not
charge any more or, load on a very low level. A
complete disassembling is essential. After several
checks, the report is disappointing the battery does
not take more the load. Showpiece of our
organization it is it which supplies with the daily
newspaper our mini PC which mainly makes it possible
to communicate and to receive by emails daily
information weather. Henceforth it will be necessary
for us to limit our communications, and to function
only on the internal battery of the PC. To forget
the technical annoyances, nothing better than a
ballade in the middle of hundreds of Terns, and
their cries strident. We should take guard, not to
crush their eggs, or their let us oisillons. In a
foam decoration and lichens with the surprising
colors. The orange rocks, slice with blue and the
surrounding green. Since the top the impression is
imposing. The sight with 360° is gigantic. In the
East an assembly line similar to the Alps. Only
wrong note, two gigantic glaciers in the course of
draining, where two mean white languages withdraw
coast. Image symbolic system if it is climate change
which undergoes the planet. It is not the desire
which misses to us remaining longer in these places,
but the sea calls us we are not yet with
semi-course. Our forecasts would make us leave the
town of UUMMANNAQ located at 170 km from there on
July 23rd, it is necessary for us thus to take again
the paddle. This ultimate stage before the return to
civilization, starts with a crossing of 12 km. At
the beginning of this one an incident occurs,
Nathalie loses the remote control of the mini-video
embarked. Positioned in bracelet around its handle
it had not ensured it. It will be necessary for us
to make without, one of us will act certainly as
remote control. We arrive on ILLORSUIT small village
of fishermen located at the foot of an imposing
cliff, on the large island of UBERKENDT, where the
population seems absent. Whereas the temperatures go
up and that the summer seems to be arrived, we
assemble the camp at the Northern end of the
village, thus putting a term at a course of 190 km
in total autonomy. Ten days were necessary to us,
including 6 of navigation.
Seen from here, the
thing seems easy, but one will remind a long time
our interrogations in the storm in the middle of
musk oxen.
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