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 Wild coast

Summary of the course carried out in total autonomy between SONDRE UPPERNAVIK and ILLORSUIT from June 27th to July 7th, 2009.

 

On Saturday, June 27, we leave SONDRE UPPERNAVIK in end according to midday on the blow of the 16:30 with 2 to 3 days of delay on the program initially envisaged. Last purchases having been made the morning even, mainly of alcohol with stove in order to be able to hold a score of days if the need being felt some. Contrary to the forecasts weather of the day, the conditions to leave the fiord are optimum, time calms and no apparent breeze. A last safety while passing in front of the village, on the bank the hands are agitated, the formulas of encouragement in Greenlandic are sent to us. Very quickly the tone is given, the absence of reference mark makes the crossings interminable. It takes us sometimes several hours to rejoin 2 coasts. In spite of a course with beforehand studied on the chart with the councils of the buildings, we cross very quickly to shortest. Our first night spent on the island of KEKERTAQ, saves to us not badly time. Surprising thing, in this sector the possibilities of stop and bivouac are much more important than in the fiords of north. It is not to displease to us, because that made party of our concerns. A strong strong gale being announced for the day of the 30, we lengthen the stages, to pass course SIGGUK. That leads us the 28 to carry out a stage of 43 km, 12:00 of navigation, the 3 last are interminable for us, outgoing fort running on this coastal projection prolonged the stage of at least 2 hours. Attracted by smoke, we unload at the bottom of the fiord, near a camp of fishing. Three tents are already assembled, the buildings accommodate us, they are there for 3 days. As we expected it, they announce us the presence of musk oxen near the camp, on the heights. They observe them with the binocular. Three rifles left. Exhausted of tiredness, it is at 5 o'clock in the morning that we will lie down, and give our safety between their hands. The following day, in spite of the music and the outward journey and come around the tent, we emerge at the beginning of after midday. But which is not our surprise, while noting, that there is nobody any more around us. At sea, 2 motorboats are on the departure. They greet us by far. Certainly prevented bad weather, they are left the places precipitately. Spent the moment of disappointment, we organize our safety quickly. Binoculars, rifle, cartridges, foghorn, and other rockets of distress are quickly gathered.  Environment is tended, we cannot leave the places, the strong gale being always announced.

 

Follows itself from there two days interminable of wind and rain. We start to ration us, in preparation for a prolonged stay. Contrast between the interior of our small shelter and the hostility of this immense plain is seizing. After more 48h of gust of wind, it is difficult to support the noise inside the tent.

At the third day the reliefs are now covered with snow, a lull seems to take shape, we decide to go there. With the program, 40 km of exposed coast and often agitated sea, generated by the presence of high funds.  Only positive point, the presence of beach on the first part of the course. After 8 hours of active navigation, back wind, and many surfings, we arrive at the Southern end of the peninsula and destination. We are now with the shelter of the dominant winds of the North-West.

However, a new strong gale with prohibition to sail is announced to us for the 4 and the 5. It us remainder 24 hours to put to us at the shelter. We travel full Is, and go along the southern part of the NUNAVIK. This route makes us join again with the ice that we had left a few times. The presence of many glaciers in the district of UUMMANNAQ which we have just entered, generate quantity of icebergs of surprising size. Whereas within a radiant framework and protected well, we await the strong gale, that it is not our surprise, while opening tardily our limps email, to learn, that this one is cancelled. One of the most beautiful days of navigation is followed from there, a light bearing wind, enabling us to put the veils, and to progress quickly, in the middle of the icebergs, and under a radiant sun. In medium of course, an opportunity is offered to us. To continue in the axis of the wind, to shunt the coastal bivouac of the evening initially envisaged. That in order to go to position with the right in the middle of the immense fjord of KARRATS. There, an island with a hut of trap door is located, this initiative saves to us good a half day, but especially, positions us in a fairy-like place with a sight with 360°. After three good hours of navigation and 16 km in full water, it is with a good wind of through, and a sea which starts to grow hollow that we see the hut, and touch the island in a small well protected bay. This navigation, makes us assess the remarkable qualities of navigation of our boats. It is true that the reputation Explorer is not any more to make. The hut is opened, it made hot there, in spite of an aspect stripped and rustic, the interior appears luxurious to us. It should be said that it is the first shelter into hard which we have touched for one month. The framework is so paradisiac, that we decide from the start to remain a whole day there, whatever the conditions to come.

 

Only on our small island, with several kilometers of the coasts, we start under a radiant sun one day of large detergent. We benefit the passage from the small interior lake to take a bath, in the middle of the cries of the terns and the regular detonations of the drifting icebergs which break around us. For a few days the solar panel which supplies the battery has given signs of weakness. This one does not charge any more or, load on a very low level. A complete disassembling is essential. After several checks, the report is disappointing the battery does not take more the load. Showpiece of our organization it is it which supplies with the daily newspaper our mini PC which mainly makes it possible to communicate and to receive by emails daily information weather. Henceforth it will be necessary for us to limit our communications, and to function only on the internal battery of the PC. To forget the technical annoyances, nothing better than a ballade in the middle of hundreds of Terns, and their cries strident. We should take guard, not to crush their eggs, or their let us oisillons. In a foam decoration and lichens with the surprising colors. The orange rocks, slice with blue and the surrounding green. Since the top the impression is imposing. The sight with 360° is gigantic. In the East an assembly line similar to the Alps. Only wrong note, two gigantic glaciers in the course of draining, where two mean white languages withdraw coast. Image symbolic system if it is climate change which undergoes the planet. It is not the desire which misses to us remaining longer in these places, but the sea calls us we are not yet with semi-course. Our forecasts would make us leave the town of UUMMANNAQ located at 170 km from there on July 23rd, it is necessary for us thus to take again the paddle. This ultimate stage before the return to civilization, starts with a crossing of 12 km. At the beginning of this one an incident occurs, Nathalie loses the remote control of the mini-video embarked. Positioned in bracelet around its handle it had not ensured it. It will be necessary for us to make without, one of us will act certainly as remote control. We arrive on ILLORSUIT small village of fishermen located at the foot of an imposing cliff, on the large island of UBERKENDT, where the population seems absent. Whereas the temperatures go up and that the summer seems to be arrived, we assemble the camp at the Northern end of the village, thus putting a term at a course of 190 km in total autonomy. Ten days were necessary to us, including 6 of navigation.

Seen from here, the thing seems easy, but one will remind a long time our interrogations in the storm in the middle of musk oxen.

 

 

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