








|
We spend one day to the small village of
Aappilattoq.
In front of us a field of icebergs. A young
person of about fifteen year, Salmon, comes to
see us with his boat. He brings us fresh drinks
and a delicacy. He practically does not speak
English. He takes us along to the village to
seek water at the blue house. (in all the
villages, there is a blue small house acting as
fountain with water). The young people play with
simple plays, the girls with the balls, a kind
of game of bowls, the boys make sail polystyrene
boats at the end of a stick.
Here, it is peaceful, people work of 9:00 to
15:00 with one hour of installation. Then, they
leave in boat, leave, are found. Bent, a hunter
and fishing professional, is presented
spontaneously to us. An exchange improvised on
the local situation begins. Object of a
forthcoming testimony.
We leave of Aappilattoq by the broad one in
order to avoid the labyrinth of ices. We move
towards the glacier, the way is long. On the
councils of people from here, we choose a
bivouac in height, on a slope of rock punt, we
mount the kayaks on snow. Our camp will be done
with more than 10 meters height. Because, when
the icebergs are turned over, those can form
waves of several meters. We sail towards the
part is of Isford, closest to the Glacier which
moved back of more than 20 km in 10 years. What
lets to us hope for a passage to the east.
Nevertheless, as one could expect it, this
passage is blocked by the pack on more than one
kilometer according to our GPS, obliging us to
make half turn to take another fjord. It will
not be the last of the day, because not finding
a bivouac, we are constrained to reconsider our
steps, having forsaken a beach which does not
enable us to position in height.
The high tide took down the deriving pack and
one could attend a musical procession of ice.
Contrary to other destinations, the locations
carried out on Google Earth are any utility here
to find a point of bivouac, even less, the
topographic charts, where the green zones on the
circumference coastal tally of nothing with
reality. One finds them even on cliffs precipice.
(Alain claims that they is algae.).
Nicolas had spoken to us about the sea urchins.
We see a great quantity of it, just below us. We
take down them with the paddles, and let us make
them go up to us. At the last moment, we put the
hands in ice-cold water to collect them. They
are very copious and excellent.
The landscape changes, we have more cliffs which
fall to peak in water. Some birds, in colony and
by place. Close to the glacier, flights of eider
duck. Here, of the kinds of gulls. We accost on
a small beach, left brook, and we had to
assemble the tent on high vegetation, in the
middle of the holes and of the bumps. No the
concern for water, there is everywhere, one can
collect it on the spot, in the cast iron of the
firns. In the night, it is necessary to move the
kayaks on the rocks because of the tide. It
assembles much more the night (1,70 m) that in
the course of the day (60 cm).
The kayak of Alain takes water, on the level of
the cockpit, and one does not manage to
determine of which place. The venturis of the
fjords, encourage us to walk on with shortest.
Michel, our router weather announces weak winds
to us, whereas we note the afternoon, we have
break constant.
We take one day of rest, for a bathe in the
marres, a ballade in mountain. The landscapes
are imposing.
Taking into account the stage that we must make,
to go in Kangersuatsioq, we decide to leave very
early. Upright with 2:00 of the morning, for a
departure with 5:00 We have fog all the day,
obliging us to sail with the instruments during
more than one hour to carry out a crossing of
fjord. We go along the cliffs precipice to a few
meters. With a course, other surprised, an
enormous iceberg bars us the road. One moment,
we question ourselves if it is necessary to
circumvent it or pass between him and ground.
On arrival with Kangersuatsioq, after 8:30 not
stop of navigation, from the children come to
see us unloading, on the beach. They do not
speak English, but remain there and help us to
move the kayaks. We assemble the tent vis-a-vis
the port. People of the village come to our
meeting. The following day, we take time to
discuss with the buildings. There are
approximately 150 people, much trappers,
hunters, fishermen. One can see it, with the
number of dogs, of the sledges, the cut up seals,
the cod which dries, of the fishermen who
prepare the nets. The village is very pretty,
with its handle in front of, its about thirty
small boats, moored with the buoys. The teacher
invites us to drink the coffee at his place, and
shows us the drawings which it makes with the
cuter.
During this week, the temperatures went up well.
As a whole, we had very lenient conditions of
navigation. |